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I dont Zampa, in a way I cheat lol. If I like the colours a client has picked, I'll think hmmm, I like that, that will go nice in the lounge or bedroom or whatever. I am terrible for picking colours, as we all know they never look the same when they are actually on the wall. :roll: If a...

Thats how I would do it, build it up, and there is less chance of it cracking, get rid of the readymade stuff, its a nightmare to sand, and doesnt really do the job properly, it should be banned, along with silk paint. :twisted:

It is quite common, I have had to do it myself, but only on one wall. I think it depends on the thickness of the original LP also. Like Zampa says, if its being painted it shouldnt matter how you hang it, as long as the butt joins are away from the previous butt joins, and with LP its so...

Try and get it off, if your using a steamer, then dont hold it in the one place too long, as it can 'pop'/'blow' the plaster underneath. If the woodchip as painted in a matt paint, then it will be easier to come off using very hot soapy water, score the paper in big crisscrosses all the way...

Or walls that you have stripped of wall paper, it gets rid of any paste gunk. Its marvelous as a cleaning agent, on nicotene or grease woodwork, and evn on UPVC window frames, it brings them up as good as new. :D

Hmmm, my thoughts too, 5-1 is far too thick for a miscoat, and why would want to put cellotape on the new paint anyway :shock: When I have hung Xmas decorations on the walls, on existing paint thats been there for a good year - 18 months it has taken the paint off, so I would never use...

This does happen with the Contract stuff, but, like CC says, if you painted over it with a vinyl paint, you dont get that trouble. I have not long finished a new plastered ceiling and walls, I did two miscoats with the contract, and the rest of the coats with the vinyl, and I think doing it...

Well as I do decorating for a living, you would think I would get fed up with it, and never do my home, but I really love the P&D side of things and am always decorating. I find what makes life easier for me, is that I have got rid of all the finish paper in my house, and did lots of prep on...

OI!!!! I resent that. :shock: Sometimes I do come across things I cant explain, and I do get myself worried about it, but, I down tools, go away, do something else, then come back to it with a clear head. It must definately be something wrong with the one wall, as he would have soaked...

Personally I would go for varnish, if you like the idea of a natural look, then use clear varnish. Varnish, specially oilbased is more hardwearing, and easily wipable, if you want a more natural finish, then go with matt, or at a push, satin, which has a slight sheen.

If your going to paint on new plastered walls, read the 'painting walls' thread. In answer to your question, and IMO, 'Dulux' every time. :D

You might be better off investing in one of those long handled scrapers, they are brilliant for scraping paint off.

Hello Diane, The way your describing the orangey paint, sounds like silk to me, thats elasticy and stretchy, specially if you use a wall paper stripper. New or bare plaster walls will not take bathroom/kitchen paint, as its too shiny,kit/bath paint is like silk paint, it has similar...

Sorry growler, I misunderstood. Yes, I would normally lose it above the door, very rarely anyone looks above the door, I think its better to lose it there than any other corner. When you walk into a room, your eye normally goes to the wall in front, or facing wall, and travels either side...

That would never happen to me, as I measure out before I start. I always manage to leave myself at least 8-10" No matter what size the room is, I always measure up for that reason, as I cannot stand tiny little strips specially where you can see them.

Thankyou Robbie :D You said in exactly 2 sentences what I tried to say. War and peace has nothing on me :roll:

Whose paying for the pens lol, as they are not cheap. As it happens I used these pens on a job, and I went thru quite a few, The client supplied them, and I think he paid approx £7 odd for each one. When you use them, you have to hold them at an angle, and keep squeezing the nib with you...

I get the impression your talking about the best to place start, either towards or away from the window. If thats the case, then the only guide I can give you is that you always work towards point of entry. For example, you stand at the room door, and you look into the room, so you would...

if your using eggshell, then you dont need to prime and undercoat, you only prime like Op says on bare wood. yes, sometimes you have to undercoat, to get a key or depth, and especially if the previously painted wood is very old and yellow. But, with eggshell, and satinwood, you normally dont...

I second that, you can seal the knots, but I would advise you to prime the wood. Then you can leave it for a few weeks of whatever, it wont do it any harm. :D