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Does it have to be a fused spur or is an unfused (ie. perfectly normal) socket OK?

Another thread sent down the pan ...

If you're desperate for heat, you can switch the receiver next to the boiler to ON. That's the switch in the middle next to the light. To pair up the transmitter after your replace the batteries: 1. turn the receive back to AUTO which is the middle setting 2. on the transmitter, press OK twice...

Earth wires aren't sheathed, just sleeved at the ends.

Colossal waste of money really, mine and your money in the end, but whether or not your parents get one isn't going to change that. All sorts of questions about whether new technology like this is safe, effective, secure, etc., but some people are less bothered than others. I won't be getting...

Just for the record, halogen MR16s are better in almost every way than halogen GU10s. However, with retrofit LED lamps the opposite could be said to be true. The lamps themselves are now essentially the same, but operation directly from a 240V supply that doesn't care much about the load is far...

At the time, I read "in series". It doesn't look like it has been edited since. Maybe I read wrong.

Did you mean in parallel? A convenient load would be a 20W MR16 bulb ... except that maybe defeats the purpose.

I think your original lamps may have been producing sufficient light but the optics look likely to be much wider than the 38 degree beam angle you need. Even if the optics on the LED do something like that, there is a diffuser on the front which would spread the light out again. The final lamp...

The mind boggles. Flickering light when you touch it? Loose wire (or just possibly a bulb about to give up the ghost). Fix that before something sets on fire. The other lights are out because your rewiring, presumably of lamp 2, is incorrect and all the other lights are now connected to the...

They worked well, I like them.

Those are retro? Maybe I'm retro ...

If it says double-insulated and comes from a reputable source, then it should be OK without the earth. If nothing else, next of kin will be able to sue when you get electrocuted :) Most double-insulated appliances will explicitly say that they shouldn't be earthed. No point going to all that...

Exactly, "unless you look up at them". You may manage to crawl into bed without ever facing upwards, but it is quite common for people to lie on their backs at least occasionally.

Best practice is certainly to have a CO detector even for sealed gas boilers, but the regulations only require them for solid fuel. CO detectors are only required in living accomodation with solid fuel appliances. Bathrooms are specifically included in "living accomodation" but CO detectors are...

If so and now properly tested, there are still all sorts of reasons why no light. The obvious one being that there is a loose, broken, or disconnected wire in the fitting (or possibly elsewhere). Or the light bulb has blown :) Test continuity on those wires. There is one obvious difference...

If you really have tried every permutation and nothing blew up then it seems like there is no live at all to that rose. There are several permutations that would cause a short-circuit. This should be trivial to check with the right equipment. If two of the black wires really were live then...

Hence the double quotes and my explanation of the real name. Thank you for repeating this important point.

Is it possible that light 2 does work, but only when light 1 is switched on?

Are you still trying to bodge in a socket because that particular kit has a wallwart? You need one of these: http://www.strictlyleds.co.uk/18-watt-led-driver-12v-transformer No socket needed, just a live wire and a neutral wire. Use on a lighting circuit or direct from a fused spur, via any...