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Our system is same age/design/size. Try the simple things first: a) Balance - turn the lock shields down slightly on those rad that are hot to force water through the other rads. b) Pump speed to max. c) Turn hot rads off alltogether. b) Chemical flush (if first two work just a simple...

Our bathrooms not much bigger - have shower pullcord on the hinge side of the door and light pullcord on the opening side. Not to cluttered - you need to close the door or reach behind it to operate the shower switch - but as you close the door when showering anyway that's not a problem.

Turn the upstairs rads off and just use the heat coming up the stairs to heat the top floor :lol: Hm just worked ours out 40 units a month over winter = approx 150Kwh a day. 5 bed detached house (1400sqft) 25 y.o. 50KBTU boiler. '80s built, '99 extension and fully double glazed.

Do you mean you opened all the radiator valves? If so you'll need to re-balance the system. Water will take the path of least resistance so most will be rushing through the rad closest to the pump. As a rough starting point - start with the upstairs rads closest to the pump, close the...

Because they think there is little point in isolating the neutral if they know it's the same as earth? (And an SP is cheaper).

Useful for v.thick sliced bread :) Or drying tea towels perhaps :shock:

Is that "clippit" I see in that screenshot. :evil: Does that location mean what I think it does :lol: (not noticed before)

So under floorboards is OK if the "hatch" isn't screwed down? :tongue in cheek:

Hassle? Chase cable, modify and fit wall bracket, fit FCU, wire - an easy job. TV was well out of warranty before it went on the wall (not that that would have stopped me). Cutting off plugs is a whole different issue - I seem to remember a debate here a while back - particularly in...

There is an in-line cable switch where the cable emerges from the bracket for isolation/replacement. As with any wall mounted object - shelf, wall light etc - it's there until the next time we decorate the room. When that is of course depends if you ask me or the other half :wink:

You have now - wall mounted 14in portable 18in below ceiling height, buried cable + aerial to loft where there is a 3A FCU from the lighting circuit (fed by 6A Type B MCB). All no problem with fuses or tripping. As it's hard wired to the FCU so there isn't a 13A socket that could be abused in...

Powerpoint?

Have one in our downstairs loo, for exactly the same reason as OP asked (kids leaving light on). Got ours from B&Q - cost less than the ebay one sparkysprite posted. It's a great test for first time visitors - they don't notice it on the way in, then when they come out they try the hall...

Electrical mess aside - did they do the :shock: plastering :shock: as well?

I've got one of those. :) Apart from radio code - all should be fine. Disconnecting the battery will cause the ECU to forget the history data it maintains (fine tuning adjustments basically) these are re-learnt fairly quickly, but it might feel a bit different after re-connecting (but as...

This might help: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/controls/controls.html http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/plumbing/controls/midpositionvalve.htm Most likely a stuck valve (or broken return spring) - but could be incorrectly wired.

We only set the alarm when out of the house (couldn't get used to resetting it when half awake in the morning :) ). So if it did go off we'd assume fire (panel would tell us anyway as it's the only thing wired to the panic button "zone"). If we were out neighbours (hopefully) would investigate...

No one has suggested leaving the old socket in place and simple running the new on as a spur (effectively using the old socket as a JB).

If you have a burgular alarm - how about fitting 12V smoke alarms wired to that. Our are wired into the anti-tamper circuit. No chance of being in a different room and not hearing it go off. Have to be careful about location though - don't want the whole neighbourhood knowing when you burn...

0.7cm stainless steel :shock: Heavy and expensive - surely you mean 0.7mm