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The planning department told me I could start but at my own risk, looks like ive gotta wait again then its been 14 months so far :roll:

I had my plans passed about 3 weeks ago but my architect has been slow to apply for my building regs so now I am hugely behind shedule. Ive been told I can start without regs but at my own risk. So if I dig my footings and get them filled with concrete, how can I prove to the BCO they are deep...

Thanks very much guys, I can see what im dealing with now, God only knows how im going to create access in a block and beam floor for one of those things though, Im over 600mm deep so im going to have to go for a 450mm one :cry:

Many thanks guys, its a bungalow with a renderred exterior wall

Ohh OK Thanks, Whats the cheapest way to achieve a .28 value then? Thanks

Just trying to get a heads up before I speak to the BCO about my new extension. I have a 7 meter long wall which has a 50mm cavity, I will be extending the wall by another 1.2meters and joining the cavities up, however the new regs specify a 100mm cavity which means im going to have a stupid...

Thanks guys, Im going to put a rodding point on the 90 degree turn but I cannot find anything that only has 2 sockets with a 90 degree turn and an inspection point, all I can find is huge manholes with loads of inlets? Any links please?

its not possible to run a straight pipe from the bathroom without making 3 more changes in direction and needing to install another 15 meters of pipe, I just do not have enough drop on the manholes to get that much run and still maintain a drop :cry:

Running a new pipe to the bathroom is not going to be feasable as I still need to connect to the existing toilet outlet as the bathroom has all been tiled new floor, nice vanity units etc.. All done by previous owner so I dont really want to pull all that lot out to get to the pipework from...

Well ive been busy over the last few days and now ive encountered a problem, the person who layed the original drains has encased all the pipe work in thick concrete so there is no way of finding a clean end to join onto :cry: I have a minidigger with a pecker attatchment coming next week to...

Hi, My new ground floor extension will have a beam and block floor covered with 75mm of cellotex and then a 65mm screed finish, My questions are: how much clearance will I need to allow under the beams to allow ventilation and will the area need to be covered with anything or can it just be left...

Thanks guys at least I have some options now for connectors, I will dig up the drains and see what size the pipes are and then decide which connectors are best for a smooth internal finish. Regards Dave

Thanks very much, it is a straight run so rodding will not be a problem from the next manhole along and the foundations will come upto the base of the new pipe less 50mm then a concrete lintel will bridge over the new pipe, sorry if I was unclear i did not mean I was going to encase the whole...

I will be fully removing the old chamber and bridging the pipe with a lintel before building on it, the next manhole is just 3 meters away so should't be an issue

Hope you guys can help me, I currently have an old manhole in my garden which only really acts as an inspection hatch and only has 1 inlet and 1 outlet on to the next manhole, I have been told I can remove it as it will be in the way of a new internal wall foundation. So my plan is to break it...

ok thanks for the reply, the blocks i have are standard concrete dense blocks, it actually seems to be more dame on the muck joints although that may be where the water settles and carries through the block. any ideas on a suitable product thanks.

Recently built a new garage and one of the walls is made from single skin concrete blocks, I sealed the entire garage with a really good coat of Thompsons Ultra one coat water seal and yet the wall is still getting wet on the muck joints. I rang thompsons and they were very unhelpful and said I...

OK, yesterday i dug up my patio and i can now confirm that the pipe is just a vent pipe running from a manhead, now is it acceptable to remove the vent pipe, concrete over the manhead and run the vent pipe from the connecting manhead that is about 10 feet away?

Thats what i was after mate and im very sorry if ive been a pain in the arse, just wanted to try and get to the bottom of the problem before shelling out for expensive parts, ive just put my meter on it and i have 240v at switched live and 240volts at red and blue on the 6 pin block so i guess...

Thanks for the advice guys, yes ive had the casing off im afraid, I am totally competant at this kind of thing as ive spent the last 11 years working on gas turbine engines, although i admit I do not hold a domestic gas license :oops: I can measure any temps, votages etc and have all the tools...