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Absolutely, which is why I have always ran a flylead to the box - better safe than sorry right!

That's my point, there are some items that you wouldn't run an earth to, so to say "You must always earth backboxes" would be incorrect. With regard to the previous comment, there are various opinions on using flyleads to the back box with some people opting, correct or not, for the screw's to...

Ah perhaps we're getting crossed wires, no pun intended, I'm guessing you are referring to the whole system, that it has an earth path, whereas I'm referring and what I'm reading, is referring to end points and items that are double insulated etc which don't have a requirement to be earthed...

The main part was on earthing, I would and have run a fly lead to a metal back box regardless, but what I have read is that it is unnecessary in most cases these days with RCD circuits and double insulated items Thanks for the link, I'll look into it further as it's really something I would...

Thank you for all the links, I am certainly reading and learning as I go and will continue to do so. I was looking at an evening course to take, however all I could find were courses for £2,000 just to read through the regulations. After reading numerous things, I must say that some of your...

I had a look in B&Q earlier, the spec on the box is the same as it is for halogen, 150mm from hole to wall on all sides, which means it's not achievable. I don't see how, certainly not how the clearance is the same between LED and Halogen. But if they say and you say it's not possible, I guess...

Yes, that's the plan, it will be a single room length piece of custom installed boxing built specifically to house the lights, about 22cm deep from the wall - so not the entire ceiling; Perhaps something similar to this would be suitable...

Sorry, to clarify, the minimum distance stated on the spec for the halogen kit is between the bulb fixing and anything else (wall, beam, strut etc) not between the lights. So I'm wondering - hoping - that by using LED bulbs the containment can be smaller as there will be virtually no heat...

They shouldn't, I've just bought the house and intend to stay here. I bought the GU10 Halogen's as they do a kit in B&Q, £15 for 3, then I swap out the halogens for LED and it still works out a lot cheaper than buying the LED parts - £17 for one bracket that's a choc block in a plastic box...

Does anyone know? I cant seem to find it anywhere. I bought 240v Halogen downlights recently and they specified 14cm clearance radius. However, having discovered that what I thought to have been some kind of driver, was in fact just a plastic box with a choc block in and swapping the bulbs for...

Ah ok, so, forgive the dumb question, but a ring circuit is basically a loop from and back to the consumer unit right, with sockets or switches wired in serial right? So surely I'd be correct in saying that if one socket broke, everything on the ring would fail? In other news; So I guess I...

I'd like to remove my fireplace. It seems fairly straight forward. But there's 2 fuse points. So it goes fireplace hardwired into fuse box one (13A). This is on the left, has black fireplace cable in, grey cable out to right. As you'd expect. (at least I would). But then there's a second fuse...

Perfect thank you, I'll have a look at that just now :)

This is simply not true as evident by anyone who has seen digital breakup on a freeview or DAB broadcast

It was an efficiency thing, if painting the paper would have worked, it would have been far more efficient to have done that. I ended up stripping it and glad I did. The problem that I have now is that my "lightly scoring" (and it was light) put streaks in the plaster. After filler and 4 hours...

This seems to be the best place to ask - does anyone know of any interior deisgn forums like this place? I've found a few but they are generally underpopulated and full of mums or people who don't actually know about theory and stuff. I'm looking for some knowledgable input on my project...

Primed this morning, painted this evening. Not as smooth as I would like, but I think it's come out well considering. Managed to do the whole 9m2 wall with 750ml of paint :D (spec is 1L for 10m2) so have a bit left for touching up tomorrow

I spent about 3-4 hours on it with an electric sander and have it really smooth, I've used watered down polyfilla for the problem areas. I'll base coat paint it tomorrow and see how it goes, fingers crossed that will have work :)

Because the cable spec needs to support such features that's why. If the cable doesn't have the pins or bandwidth to carry a 3D signal, it doesn't matter how amazing the 3D TV is, it's not going to work - come on, this is basic physics. £20 tyres - because, safe or not, they are lower quality...

Absolutely not. Despite the support for different versions of the spec, you have support for different features like HDCP, 3D, XVYCC, colour depths, bit rates, bandwidths - some HDMI cables don't carry sound. Add on top purer raw materials with more sheilding and you will get a better picture...