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Oh I see what you mean now - was being dim. That's not a bad idea at all. Unfortunately, having done the measurements, I don't think I can physically get the tank high enough to comply with the requirements of the T80SR. If run off the mains, any issues with things like the kitchen tap or...

My existing electric shower (Mira Sport Max) runs from the mains. I won't exceed the max inlet pressure for the T80SR from the CWS. But I do need to raise the tank to meet the minimum head/pressure.

That's very interesting, thanks. My flat is split between the 2nd and 3rd floors of the building. I know that the mains pressure is ~0.7 to 1.0 bar (static) at the 2nd floor, so it could well be that it's around 0.5 at the shower on the 3rd floor...

While we're here. The existing electric shower is a Mira Sport Max 9.0 kW. When run on the "High" setting (9.0kW) even with the temperature turned fully down, it is far too hot to stand under (and I do like a generally warm shower, ~38-40 degrees). But the flow is adequate (~4 to 5 or so l/m)...

Yeah, unfortunately the shower and the CWS are on the same floor, and the bottom of the CWS is about 30cm below the top of the existing electric shower. Mira don't have a particularly good diagram to scale off, but it appears the inlet is slightly higher on the existing than the Triton - so...

And what I propose is neither of those things. It heats the water (has a not weedy cable) and has a built-in pump fed from the CWS.

Makes sense. At the moment hot and cold water to the bathroom taps and shower over bath are both gravity fed (vented cylinder for HW), via a salamander pump. Ideally I would just get a mixer shower run from this, but would require some significant building works in the bathroom.

So reading the requirements for the above, it requires 8cm of head (8cm between bottom of CWS and top of shower unit). Unfortunately I do not have that, so that’s that idea scuppered!

Fairly uncommon I think. Mira also do one: Mira Elite SE 10.8

I linked one in my oroginal post, but here is the unit I'm looking at: Triton T80SR It's an electric shower with a built-in pump.

Thanks for the replies. Unfortunately existing electric (without pump) shower is only on a 6mm cable so I can’t go up to 10.8kw (and the cable has been sealed in behind the tiles by some wayward mortar so there’s no changing it). I currently only get ~2.5 or so l/m from the electric shower on...

Current electric shower and toilet are fed from mains supply. Pressure is terrible (have had plumbers and Thames Water round - no dice), so I've been advised I could try an electric shower with built-in pump that runs from the CWS instead (example). However, I'm not able to get a new pipe into...

Unfortunately not.

But in this sense, if the stat is in the short element only (which it is: https://www.heatrodshop.com/product/27-dual-copper-immersion-single-stat) it seems true that you would not be able to get the long element to run if the top is already at temperature?

Cheers, I'd seen this image on a different thread in the past (was that your thread, or were you just replying to it?). I never really understood how it could work well with the stat only being the length of the short element and I'm glad you've confirmed that as being a thing.

Unfortunately top entry, dual element immersion heaters seem to be relatively few and far between. What do you mean when you refer to "dual height thermostats would be an incredibly simple fix for the issue of sink/bath"? Presumably that if JohnW's simplified theory held then you would only...

After all theory is one thing and anecdotal, practical experience another. I have come round to it being the case that it would probably not be of benefit for me to change the whole cylinder. Either for comfort/ease of use reasons (because, as you say, in practice I'd notice little difference)...

I see where you're coming from, but as the hot water rises through the cylinder from the bottom it will definitely dissipate heat into the surrounding body of water on its way to the top. I understand it will be hottest at the top though. By minimising the distance the hot water has to travel...

Very interesting, I can see the use for that. Definitely above my pay grade to build and implement though!

I think we're saying the same thing. I am not a plumber or heating engineer, but surely if I had for argument's sake a 10" element and a 20" element of the same rating, then the 20" element is going to distribute the energy into twice as much water therefore it would take twice as long (maybe...