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1) The condensing pipe is fine to go into the rainwater stack. .. However, they could of put an elbow as it came out the wall if they really wished, it would of just meant coring through the wall with a slightly bigger core bit than the elbow (then the elbow can push inside the wall neatly!)...

A picture of the tap would help, then we could answer your question.

How is your hot water pressure in all your other taps in your property?

Has it dropped 1 bar more than once? .. If so theres a leak!

With great care and using a ceramic drill bit.

Both hot and cold pressures are the same so the answer is no you shouldn't have a problem. :lol:

Have you got a mixer tap (anywhere in the house)? If so, you could open up your hot tap and put your hand over the spout and slowly open up the cold tap (keeping your hand tight over the spout) and let the cold mains backfill up the hot and therefore hopefully clearing any air/blockages.

Aha, didn't read the OP post well enough! :oops: .. Seco, it only needs to be temporarily 'sealed' so your "comment" makes no sense.

Personally, I use a Sentinal Jetflush Powerflushing machine. With a litre of X800 chucked in and 6-8 hours of "flushing" the system is as good as new. Depends on the circumstances, if I'm putting in a new combi (sealed) system before I install the boiler, I use the flow and return pipes to...

Clicker or coin :D

Faulty/partially blocked check valve. Why not?

You have to make it a sealed system. That means capping off the vent pipe to your F+E tank and cutting in a valve on the cold feed (to your rads) coming from the bottom of the F+E tank and turning it off! So there are no open ends (and no chance of backfilling the tank). My advice would...

I don't think the problem is to do with any isolating valves (if they have been open fully). With a high pressured system it doesn't matter what tap you have, it should work fine. .. My guess is that he has probably put 'one way check valves' on the hot and cold pipework and this could be...

It could be a number of things. 1) Your system might need balancing. (Eg, the rads that come on quickly and get hot need to be turned down and therefore pushing heat quicker to the other rads.. and do this with every radiator till they all come on at the same time. 2) You might have a...

If you turn off every other radiator in your house.. does your new radiator get fully hot then? .. If so, its a balancing problem. If the radiator still doesn't get hot, I'd recommend phoning up the radiator manufactuers and telling them your queries about the washers in the columns, etc.

If you look on your pavement outside there should also be an external stopcock (Under a little square flap). Check that is also open fully (might need to get down on your hands and knees to reach it!) :lol:

Have you tried turning off ALL the other radiators with only your boiler on?

Won't be working for her again! :twisted:

When commissioning the boiler he should have checked all the gas pressures. Inlet pressure, working pressures, burner pressures, gas rates, etc. If they are all okay, your gas pipe sizing is fine. Did he fill out the benchmark (in the back of your MI)?

Can I just clarify you have done the following: 1) Turned off all the other radiators with your central heating on full. (Did your boiler cut off when you done this?) 2) Taken the 'cold' radiator off and flushed it through. (Was it dirty?) 3) When your radiator was off did you open up...