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The small nut on the valve, through which the shaft projects. The handle you turn to operate the valve is on the end of this shaft. Spanner size is about half an inch , across the flats.

i didn't say about the soldered joints - my understanding is that plaster is even more aggressive to these than copper. So they are to be avoided.

If you google 'copper development association', the uk site not the american one, you will be able to get detailed advice. But I think I would either put the 15mm pipes inside a 22mm pipe or I'd wrap it loosely in plastic bubble wrap. Or, I might not bury the pipes, but get some chromed copper...

Where does the waste pipe terminate? If it is connected to a stack, it's too long and will need a McAlpine trap at the sink to let air in (otherwise the trap will gurgle empty and you'll get drain smells in the room). If it discharges over a gulley,it should be ok and should discharge below the...

I'd change the F & E tank they cost less than £10. Because it's wrongly fitted. The outlet should be about 25mm above the bottom. i.e. on the side. This is so the rubbish doesn't go down the pipe. it should also have a tight fitting lid, a dip tube to stop air coming up the overflow and freezing...

if it's just one ground floor toilet and the rest is on a single stack system, no vent is normally required, I believe, but you might just check with the people at Building Regs at the Council.

the big tank feeds the secondary circuit, which is the one which give you hot and and cold at the taps, and has a drain on the pipe at the bottom of the cylinder. You don't need to touch any of this to do the rad. The small tank feeds the rads and boiler, so you stop this filling and drain your...

there are some diagrams on the heating pages of the 'diyfxit' site, for example. the basic idea is it's filled from tanks in the loft. Any tap will let water out if it's below the tank. so the pipe can go down to the cylinder, then back up to the tap and water will come out the tap even though...

If you move the roomstat to the living room, leave the TRV on the hall rad. You don't have to remove the TRV's in the living room either, PROVIDED you leave them (it) fully open on max. Then the roomstat can do it's job of controlling the boiler and saving you money. Scatmanjohn, I see why you...

Plaster is aggressive to copper, so it rots the pipe. Copper expands when it's heated so the plaster falls off. So you need to wrap the pipe to isolate it from the plaster, chemically and spatially. 10 mm pipes will be ok with a low output rad, but insufficient for a bigger one, so the answer...

Well, you choose your 'critical room' and put your thermostat in it. Perhaps the living room. The other rooms will be cooler, for example bedrooms, and halls, so the TRV's control them. Some rooms will need to be hotter, for example the bathroom. Again the TRV does it's job. When your critical...

It's the other way round!!!!! Open the TRV's fully in that room only and set the roomstat to the temperature you want. Then the room warms up to the desired temp, the system stops until your critical room is too cold, then starts again. If your roomstat is not in your 'critical room', move it!!!!

Sounds like there's a leak?

It sounds as though the valves have stuck shut. You might clear them by closing all other valves, so the pump puts all it's pressure on these two and forces them open. Otherwise, you could try taking the heads off and pushing the pins down firmly with a hard object, eg hammer head, repeatedly...

It's quite likely that there is nothing wrong with the AAV other than it needs cleaning. Some brands can be dismantled and cleaned. Often the smallest bit of scale or crap will cause them to leak. How difficult it is to change the AAV depends on the brand. For example, the 'Flexvent' brand...

Yes you can buy a suitable pump, but it's not the best solution IMHO, because: 1 - It's something else to go wrong 2 - It will make a noise - how much depends on how good it is and how you install it. 3 - It takes up space 4 - It needs wiring in - what about Part P? 5 - It costs a bit So...

You seem to have several problems. A programmable stat is what we should use now, because it allows you to set different temeratures at different times, therefore more fuel efficient. Whether or not it supplies mains voltage or merely closes a switch (so called 'volt free') depends on the 'stat...

The obvious thing to do is to check if the wire connecting the timer output to the boiler input goes live when the timer actuates. this is normally and best checked at the boiler terminals. if there is no signal, then there could be a bad connection in the run between the two, perhaps at the...

Suggest you read the info in the electrical section thoroughly before installing electrical equipment in a bathroom. You might be making a big mistake doing this.

If you're trying to extend the pipe by the smallest amount, you could get one of those tools that expands the end of the pipe, allowing you to insert another piece of pipe. It looks a bit like a slide hammer. So you could prepare one end of your new pipe, trial fit and cut to length, then solder...