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the deeper he goes in the ground theres the price of the muck away an the concrete to put back in the ground plus the labor for it all. we only got abit deeper if needed if the ground is soft or sandy chalk ect you can get away with more rebar into the footings but its down to the BC really...

sorry to say it but it is what ever the builder says it is in some cases but your better off calling the guys thats supplying the concrete is it ready mix or are they mixing it on site his price seems abit high. as the drainage he probs thought he could just chuck in the pipe at half hight or...

a quote is a quote ases on the works needed But if theres extra works needed then yes the customer has to sort this with builders. but in my book its a fair call if there is more work to doo like the rodding point then it is more parts an more time out of the job its self = more money.. even...

4/1 what can i use sbr bond in the mix or brushed on the floor as a primer

Hi guys whats the mix for the slurry coat applied over the block an beam floor???????

do you want to sell the bar the scissors??? now oyur done with them

hi you can get a micro digger thats 750mm wide if you have any access to the garden or through your house trust me we have done it. as for clearing soil away what about muck away your looking at about £100/£180 depends on who you use an carry up to 14tonnes

course you can but yur need all the plans draw up an QS and BC how deep are your pockets

http://www.marleyplumbinganddrainage.com/uploads/gfx/339.gif http://www.travisperkins.co.uk/webimage/800000/830000/837000/837262-800.jpg just to show you what we are saying mate

http://www.jade1.com/jadecc/courses/UNIVERSAL/graphics/small/QID4208_Small.jpg

We have build about 4 of these walls in the past there really strong one was basement walls bearing a 100 tonne load on it BUT BUT BUT BUT if you do use this type of wall please buy the rebar cover that covers the end of the steel rods looks like a bit plastic mushroom bend over an get spiked...

http://www.lestersbuilders.com/images/new-retaining-wall--photo-120726153558o.jpg

you can use use concrete blocks that have 2 big holes cant remember there name. you tie in rebar into the footings pocking up say your 1m height you set these out so that they line up with the holes say 1 rod per each other block then when your finished you just fill the holes with concrete job...

what aout a dry verge system????

any chance of a pic please as if its natural slate you should sea the tops before laying. grouting in the slates wont fix your problem at all all it will do is is lock them together soo to speak but if there loose or rocking the grout will just crack an pop over time an winter will kill it...

best way to do it are you planning to hire a whacker to compact the base? if so you can ether peg it out soo the top of the peg is level to the finished flag height. then mark off the depth of flag mortar bed an hardcore you can chuck in some earth an rake off an whack or even just chuck in...

NOOO! that chances of cleaning each an every brick an them being class b bricks? have you ever built a manhole ut of bricks before? your need building control out probs to inspect it if its not done 110% right your snookered. doo you know how to run the half pipes hornching form an lay...

dependent on job type that how we work thats all with rebar ect how we was showed by an old school builder.

Thanks mate id be lost with out your helpful comment :shock:

its all well an good but there site prices not domestics domestics isnt much different but at the end of the day we all want to save money..... having worked on both price day rate an m2 some jobs are better on m2 an some on day rate if the guy feels he is making on m2 then thats his call...