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Is your nans bedroom window directly above the window below if so it is possible that there could have been timberwork between the two windows that may have been clad, tiled or rendered to the face. What have the neighbours got??

I have the blue bosch thats comes in a case and retails at £95 at screwfix its a good tool and value for money, if its not going to get much use you could buy the green bosch normally around £50 still a good tool but no case and not as robust.

Sand diagonaly across the boards both ways and then in line lowering the drum gently, blend the edges into the floor using two grits, try an 80 grit as 60 is alot coarser and can do more damage in the hands of the ameteur sander. Corners and under rads etc you will need a scraper (BnQ sell a...

You will be able to tell if the walls are built on top of the original boards by a simple bit of detective work - which way the boards run and wether they stop short of the wall for a start. I'm fairly sure most floors layed are layed over the existing subfloor with new skirts and undercutting...

I would be a little concerned about the moisture content of the timber an open sided barn could be damp i guess and the normal week or two for acclimatising is usually for new timber that has been dry stored. 5mm around the perimeter for expansion is not enough for an average room i would of...

I your property is rendered or pebbledashed externally it would make it easier to alter the opening - if you have brickwork externally i would buy a set of doors the correct size. Internally you would need to build up the reveals with plasterboard or bonding.

Trim a mm or two of one end and try again, it will be much easier to disguise a fanni gap mitre than a join mid bead. A rubber mallet might help.

I've got a perles router very nice bit of kit!! Definatly a professional tool with a fair price due to to perles not being so well known. Trend have a router which is identical on spec etc but %50 more expensive i think they may share factorys?

That is a very reasonable price for a new staircase i would of guessed at £600 - £800. Thanks for the advice.

Thx for the reply noseall - the newel post will be out of place indeed and i never did like the banisters plus it creeks like hell, a new staircase sounds like a fun project.

Surface mounted espagnoilette locking (spelling may be wrong) you cut the bars to length so may be ok - dont buy cheap the handle will shear off.

Acoustic glass is what you need - its expensive but effective.

Sounds like a liquid latex floor leveling compound might do the trick - be warned does not self level! Once the sub-floor is level the laminate can be re-layed.

At the moment our staircase is straight but the top 3 treads turn onto the landing, if we carry out the alterations planned we would like to have the stairs running straight. Could we convert the original staircase ( i guess so) or would it mean a complete new staircase? Hope this makes...

Done half a days work for a pakistani family in west london and was given 63 pence and half a loaf of brown bread! Done my best to refuse but the lady insisted :lol: Slightly better was a oversized set of pine drawers a customer wanted rid of - re-waxed and used them for a couple of years...

We have engineered oak which required a light sand and 3 coats of osmo wax, been down around 18 months now has changed to a warmer tone and looks great - much warmer underfoot than laminate.

Condensation can be tricky to cure - are the tenants drying wet clothes on the rads? is there an exstractor fan in the bathroom and kitchen? Double glazing can make a big diffrence. Failing any of that ask the tenants if they have considered taking up part time window licking :shock:

Helps if your putty is fairly new as it does go hard lumpy over time especially if kept in the cold (van/shed), work it for 10 mins or so and if you are slow at applying it it might be best to just do each side as you go. I find a 30mm paint scraper which i have put a slight bend on works...

Thx for the replys - woody you are correct about the stepping back from the front elevation i think it is around 800mm and to stop the terracing effect the gutter has to be around 500mm from the boundary although the grd floor elevation can be built up to the boundary the first floor needs to...

Yeah your right - will contact the council monday, i've been told that we may get declined due to allready having a rear extension :( We are under epsom and ewell council in surrey can anyone recommend a local pro to do our drawings etc?