Search results

Any one familiar with sime superior boilers. I have been given 3 wrong fans even though i give the part no,i have a fan for a 40/50 superior will it work,or to weak to run the 60 mark 2,thank you

get some air (can of compressed air),and see the million screws on the cover,undo them yake cover off and see the air pressure tubes pull them off from the aps and blow clear ,is the rad cap on ,on top of boiler ,ask your gas fitter if he can do it for you as he owes you that at leaST

Anyone know how the nut on fans undo's.I need to take the bracket off a fan and fix it onto another put i cant undo the nut that holds the wheel in place and tightens onto the spindle,it is round with 4 grooves in ,i know it looks like a special tool job,but anyone help.THANK YOU

Yes,i forget that you shouldnt be touching most parts on the boiler,

Gasguru ever changed a fan on worcester he system boiler,do you need to take the complete set up out,inc undo gas pipe ?

Sounds like circulation,pump ok?,as its not staying on long enough to reach temp,but it must be hot by the boiler if its cutting off,is it red hot at the pipes at the boiler?

also check pcb,top left,neutrul is it burning out

Check and see if disconnecting pump worksd,then try fan,gas valve.I am sure these have a transformer in as well,but just taking the pump connection out the pcb will see if it blows,but if its only happening now and then,maybe the transformer is going

Changing fan on worcester condensing system boiler,and i can see it looks awkward,do i have to take the whole section out,undo gas union,and then do it that way,or can i just change it in place? any ideas please

Have you got a gate valve on h/water circs near cylinder,if so turn off and see if rad gets hot,iof it does,open valve enough to let heat through

ARE you sure the pump is running,and mzv is working

Is it green button type,with black solenoid (round thing),it will be the gas valve as they are really simple to fix ,nothing in them,let me rthink for a minute

is the pilot light on,if it is try just making sure thr green button is fully out

Have you not got a valve in cylinder cupboard with red wheel head,on the 2 ,22mm pipes coming from the side of your cylinder,they are your hot water circs and normally have a valve on so you can control the amount of water going through your circs so the rads dont get robbed,i guess you cant...

CAN you check mzv ,and try turning h/water off by gate valve on circs ay cylinder and see if it will push through

Jason,the prices are mad,ive seen then for £280.I seen one for £110,ive got 2, recon pcb's,i repair the pcb's that are expensive most times its just a relay or just new solder is needed,so i will send you one that i know works and if it is the fault on yours send me the old one and i will fix it...

Jason,pcb,mate,i was talking to worcester technical today ,over a boiler i was at and asked him about yours and he said "try the sensors,clear tubes,"told him weve done that and he said pcb,so we tried anyway,i will be careful were you buy it,just dont go for the cheapest make sure they have...

Jason,just undo the easiest one and leave it connected top the aps,then jkusty try bl;owing down or suckig very lightly,and if it fires then clean it out the tubes ,just take them off and blow them clear,and the venturi,i get told by all the others that i am wrong to tell people to do things...

Jason,just undo the easiest one and leave it connected top the aps,then jkusty try bl;owing down or suckig very lightly,and if it fires then clean it out the tubes ,just take them off and blow them clear,and the venturi,i get told by all the others that i am wrong to tell people to do things...

yes try it with them both connected to the sensors but just swapped them over,if the heating is ok then you know its a sensors if its not then sensors ok and now we go to a step closer to pcb,i would also check the harness going into pcb,it has a harness that has loads of wires on it going to...