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Jason,just look at the h/w sensor undo screw,take the clip off and just put it onto the c/h leads and h/w leads onto the c/h sensor which just pulls off

NO ,TAKE THE SENSOR OFF THE H/W PIPE AND JUST PUT IT ON THE C/H LEADS,ITS THE SCREW TYPE ON THE H/W ISNT IT

I just get a 19mm for 15m pipe,so theres no creaking when the hot expands,just go through about 15 m from the top of the joist,why bnot notch out,just a width of 35m and depth,lay them in and keep apart and all done

balenza a man after my own heart,dont let the heat masters hear you,you are from the dark side,good lad

I done a full c/heating installation last month,and every day 30 min before i was leaving i would get the hoover and go over were id worked.I was upstairs and the customer and her mother were talking to a neighbour and the mother said"I told you didnt i,every night,that lad hoovers up and cleans...

Then you will know if its working if the h/water works when sensors are swapped over,thjats a 100%way,isnt it ,that will narrow the proplem down

SEE the h/water sensor take it off and try the c/h sensor leads on it just swap them over

Is it doing hot water as well,I would make sure your fully pumped or gravity switch hasnt been knocked over by accident

It does seem like a pcb,but thats the final thing

see the c/h sensor can you check it or arent you used to a m.meter

aps? but h/water ok,so i think aps ok

gasguru,,how can it wreck his boiler,so when you go to change a auto air vent or heat exchanger,you dont just open the prv,and let it go,id rather do that than touch some drain offs,if the drain off is a few years old then its 70/30 against it opening.I have been in this game long enough to know...

Close upstairs rads off by trv or l/shield valve and close d/stairs bar one rad and see if it comes on ,if ok,go to next one and open ,and so on

KEEP the new rad lower and ease the pipes out so there on a angle and if its alot and the trv head is sticking out turn it on its side,or get 2 15 mm i/valves,cut pipe low and fit valves get a off set and your done

Why do you need to drain it?and yes it will empty the system and rads that are above your boiler,open the air vents if you need to get the rads empty above the boiler hieght,

Ring him and say "can you come andcollect your money your owed,i wont be in but my neighbour will be here ,she is going to be here fitting new curtain's "and when he knock's tie him up and get a gimp suit on and do a pulp fiction on him,he will soon fix your heating with a dog lease round his...

have you had it off and put the no return on wrong way?or when you undo it at the top connection and open then does it allow water through

open it up on the tee so its in line with the loop

take cover off,find prv and open it up,red cap with pipe going outside turn anti c/wise and watch pressure drop

It must be valves turned off,because a bloxckage shouldnt stop every bit of water getting through and with 3 bar there must be line valves turned off or it would let some through