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Don't worry about it. You almost certainly don't have the mentioned "dual-earth facility". In these cases you wire it just like a regular socket. The two earth terminals are connected and you can use either, or possibly both if that is more convenient. There is no requirement to connect to the...

The Drayton MITime is a room stat for whichever room you put it in. Having another elsewhere also controlling the boiler might be confusing. It doesn't have to be in the same room as your only bypass radiator, although having it in a room with a TRV isn't ideal because that room may never get...

Just checked and magnetic ballasts are still legal. Happy days! As of April 13th they are banned. Most manufacturers have given up on them ahead of this. The previous, and current for a little while, regulations date back to 2005. The rules for magnetic and electronic ballasts were essentially...

Yup, that's the thing. Not exactly standard-issue on a domestic ring main though. I think there was a bit of a fuss about these clean earth terminals a while (decade or two?) back when home computers and the like became common, and now it has more less become a non-issue? Big switched-mode power...

I think magnetic ballasts are officially dead now, should have happened a decade ago. Nevertheless, a great many people still have them since they were standard-issue until very recently, with the electronic ones a "premium" item FFS. Anyway, people fed up with useless fluorescents are even more...

Because of the USB connectors, I suspect "functional earth" may refer to a stable 0V reference rather than a protective earth, something that is commonly needed in electronics. I'm not sure you really have that as a separate wire, but the normal earth in a domestic ring main shouldn't be very...

As downlights, LEDs can usually manage with fewer lumens than fluorescents (reflector inefficiency, etc.). Might also be quite a bit less than 5,000 lumens if there is a magnetic ballast in those old tubes. Still need an awful lot of those little LED fittings. Fluorescents put out a lot of...

I think http://www.centralheating.co.uk/system/uploads/attachments/0000/4888/T11_0027BRev8_INDUSTRY_GUIDANCE_ON_CONDENSATE_DRAINAGE_PIPE_INSTALLATION_Final_2011.pdf is up to date. Internal termination is preferred.

For task lighting, I'd be looking at 9.6W/m. More even if you have old eyes. Recommendations for kitchen task lighting are generally a minimum 50 foot-candles, 75-100 being preferred especially for older people. That means you would be looking at 300-600 lumens/m if 100% of the light hit your...

Cables are sized from the current (and length). Mains current before the LED driver will be extremely low. Current at 12V after the transformer will be an amp or two in your circuit. Fuses are also based on current. In your case I guess 3A since that is the lowest. I'll leave the FCU...

It does sound like the boiler is taking an age to heat the water to 90C. Once there, I Imagine the radiators do their job and warm the house OK? Measuring flow and return temperatures off the pipe is done with and IR gun or a probe that can be attached to the copper. A traditional thermometer...

Looks like your usage over the four months was about three units (cubic meters) a day. That is probably about right for a flat in winter. That should come in under forty pounds a month on a good tariff, but maybe higher on a credit meter. Sounds like your previous tariff was a lot more expensive!

That would make for a good bang, I'm sure!

I'm not psychic and I don't know who originally set it that way, I'm just guessing. Maybe another customer that thought more fuse wire gives more protection?

Some years ago after a minor explosion due to a short-circuit, I discovered that the fuse-box contained half a dozen strands of 5A fuse-wire. Looking more closely, the downstairs lighting circuit was trying to support 20 individual lampholders with 60W bulbs, one with three 20W bulbs, and a 200W...

Yes, that all sounds about right. I tried to measure, but I'm none the wiser whether it is exactly 5.3mm or 5.33mm. I did find a manufacturer specification giving the spacing on G5.3, GU5.3, and GX5.3 bases as 5.33mm. At the risk of getting the discussion all riled up again, MR16 is effectively...

Sad, isn't it. I love LED lamps, but the difficulty (or expense) getting ones that dim reliably and properly is a real stumbling block at the moment.

Come on now. There are all sorts of reasons for someone to have a £300 bill in a new flat, some of them even due to a boiler. The OP doesn't appear to be trolling, although probably has been scared away. Or maybe resolved the issue :)

Now you're starting to sound like the guys over in the plumbing forum: picking semantic nits and generally just trying to start fights when it would be much less effort to be helpful.

Back to town gas, eh? Not sure what my touchy-touchy condensing boiler will make of that.