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glue in a bit of timber cut to the shape then once dry plane flush, sand and paint

you cant grumble about getting a kitchen fitted for £350 with out even seeing the job id be over £500, by the time you deduct the list skenk made allong with tax etc you aint left with much now if it was a cash in hand job £350 is not bad, good for him and good for you if you are not...

wow thats bad why did he fit a 4x2 on the right hand side in the from above pic on pg1? if he put the frame to the joist it would have given enough room on the otherside for a full archtrave? on pic 3 or the orig pics dont even look like archtrave, just looks like pse the from above...

a finer saw will give a better cut. why not jsut mark the longpoint on the bottom, short point at the top, square the longpoint up then just freehand cut

i agree with you, it looks miles better imo than 2x 45s and a big flat top of filler

it needs lining up so the round if facing inwards and the flat but goes to the end panel, the leg should not lap onto the end

timber worktops are butted up ,no mitre, just biscuits and bolts, and silicone, dont use glue

solid tops usually connected with a but join not a scribe so you dont uven need a jig

what type of door is it? imo it would be easyer to get a door alittle bigger and cutting "1 or so off than remove frame, archs, shirting etc if its painted you could add timber onto the hinge side of the door, eg plane the old hinge mortices out then glue/pin on a 12mm/whatever size lath...

how much would you charge WMchippy?

what quotes have you had? decent hinges will be about a few quid, say £50 to start then for the doors there is a wide range of prices for 12 doors you should be looking at minimum of £25 a door asuming they are eggbox doors, hardwood will be more. so £350+ if they are hardwood doors...

moisture resistant mdf takes paint alot better than normal mdf, try it next time... best thing to do is brush pva glue on all the edges then when its dry it will sand smooth then it will take primer/paint like the rest of the board you will have to add a little water to the pva to make it...

buy the 100mm upstand and cut it down?

are they hook and band hinges? google "hook and band spike pin"

a yellow wall plug in each hole

i use a few brackets upto the worktop and a few into the floor on the inside so they will be covered by the appliances. you will need a 2x1 batton across the wall behind the appliances for the worktop to sit on if you havent already with a few brackets to hold the w/top down

you need to do a return mitre, so the molding is mitred into the wall

make your own lining from 150x35mm pse , just cut to width, with 2x1 stoplaths glued and screwed every 300. house the legs into the head, but if it needs intermisant strip rout before you knock it together

find a local joiner/kitchen fitter with an account

dont froget the drip groove under the cill