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Your question does not make sense, you have no spare ways, so how would you intend to come of the existing board. Are you capable of complying to the regulations regarding this work? What size cable do you have for the 9.5kw and are any derating factors to be applied?

It will be working pressure of the boiler, then factor in.

I doubt that controls will come with these items and are normally purchased separately. It is likely your existing one, needs a replacement heating element rather than new radiator. It is not unusual for the element/rod to fail at some point. I assume the controls still look as though they...

If they are all getting hot, then it can be assumed the pipework is adequate for the current heating demand. Many systems use 8mm pipe on long runs and that does the job.

Your heater is only going to draw about 8amp, 2.5mm twin and earth cable, can carry a maximum of 27amp. Providing there are not any extreme derating factors, that could bring the CCC down to less than 8amps (which is very unlikely). The cable will be very capable or safety carrying the load current.

Do you have a multimeter? a little testing is required, to identify which cable is which.

I think the opt out is "not known" on the questionnaire. Although if you do know, you are lying if you answer that!

If the sink is close by, use an appliance trap and feed waste outlet of dishwasher to it and get ride of obstructive waste outlet pipe.

Using two RCDs on the same circuit does not guarantee selectivity, from one RCD to the other. It still maybe that RCD in the house still activates first. It is normally good practise to either have garage circuit on it's own RCBO or have the circuit to the garage protected against mechanical...

Put then where you have room and they will not be an obstruction or be obstructed, it is as simple as that.

https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/heatlossCalculator

If you don't have a plumber/heat engineer to do proper calculation? This online calculator will help you. You will have to do some work on figuring out best places for rad sizes though. Cannot really expect busy people on here to do that for you!

Sorry Dan my error

That would be assuming the installer of the new circuit complied to the requirements of BS7671 (or not less than that standard)

Does it happen at any other hot water outlets?

I am sure they will John, thank you very much for your concern.

Thank you John, TBH I have been better, but will survive. Hope you are also well and in good health.

As it is a random trip, it would be hard to diagnose. I would say if shower trips after 3 minutes, to look at the pump. But if the shower RCD is shared with other circuits, the fault could be elsewhere.

1. No, any new circuit would require an electrical installation certificate 2. It would depend on the code designated to the issue. Code 1 and 2 require attention, code 3 does not. If the switch plates were metallic class I, it would be considered unsafe/unsatisfactory. 3. As above for safety...