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BICON-Prysmian-R391 http://www.cable-glands-cable-cleats-crimping-tools.co.uk/suppliers/BICON/BICON-Compounds-and-Resins/pdfs/BICON-Prysmian-R391-Electrical-Weatherproof-Compound.pdf

Only thing you can do is either, check the fall of the flow is suitable, keep the pipework clean or don't use soap products.

Installing just the one outlet/tap will not help overall, but installing a PRV at the incoming supply, will control the whole of the system.

A few minor alterations and you should be able to fit a PRV.

If you have a high incoming water pressure, installing a pressure reducing valve after the internal stop tap, will very likely resolve your issue.

What type of shower is it? Shower is still delivering water, although not heated water?

Now I am thinking, did you check for voltage before you did the wiring? If no power, it is worth checking for above worktop or inside kitchen unit isolation, there could also be another fused connection in line with it, which would need checking for fuse. I assume the position of this accessory...

Well you do want an electrician that is competent, that does not mean they need to be registered with a scheme provider. Even if the work is notifiable an unregistered (with a CPS) electrician can be used. Just the process of notification is different as a CPS can self notify, where an...

What about underneath that, it maybe boxed in.

There should be a filling loop between the cold water supply and central heating return. The loop should have two valves, they are both opened to raise the pressure to specified amount, then closed. It is likely the radiators will need vent and more water introduced to raise the pressure back...

Have you tried clicking the window icon, bottom left corner.

They should be going to the drain. If it causes issues elsewhere on your property, would be hard to say, as it would depend how the water disperses from there.

You would probably need to change tranies to drivers. Saying you have no access to them is worrying.

Some CPS did offer it, but then ditched it. But if it were an option, you still need to inform the electrician prior to work starting and they then have to do 1st and 2nd fix inspection/testing. Quote "The registered Electrical Certifier must be informed in advance of any proposed work they...

Still need to inform the electrician first, which will require their input.

It would always be best to discuss this with the electrician, prior to starting the work. Some will be happy to allow donkey work and inspect exposed routes and condition of cable, some will not. Part P will not prevent you from doing donkey work, but you need an electrician that is happy with this.

Contact the electrician you are going to employ prior to doing any donkey work, as they are going to sign the work off and it then becomes their responsibility. Part P is a building regulation and providing the work is done safely and notification of work is correctly applied for, then I see no...

I always use the hollow wall anchors with the setting tool. Like you mentioned, much better way of installing the anchor and when installed correctly nothing I have seen on the market or used onsite, is as good.

The central insert with the three lugs on, will twist out, normally a quarter turn anti-clockwise does the trick. Use the lugs as leverage and it should just drop down.

Probably best to rake that area of the wall out, until just under flush, then fill out and skim up.