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Unless you know the manufacturer of the mixer or where purchased from. I think you could be struggling.

Yes it has snapped/broken. The spring would sit through the middle of the central pin/spindle but as it has broken it will not stay in place.

You would fit battens perpendicular existing joists, then fix the other battens to these, I would expect a joist/noggin already close to the perimeter walls to fix to.

Normally you undo shower hose from unit, then twist the divertor knob off. You will then need to take the valve out using a hex key from underside.

It would depend on your existing ceiling and how level it is, to which method is best used. If you where to use battens, then 2"x 1" are usually fine. You will need to identify where you existing joist are. Recommended spacing would be 400mm to 450mm centres then battens along centre line and...

It is difficult to say. I prefer to watch TV with lights off. But also like to be able to read in this room, so I like the light to achieve that. Likely looking at 20-50 Lumens/p/m2 as ball park figure. But it maybe something you need to tweak with.

You can use either, dry-wall adhesive (powder and mixed with water) or the foam adhesive. It is up to you. Just follow the instruction on the product.

If the bathroom floor cannot come up, the only other option is the ceiling. Or take cubicle down and lift tray!!!

It will have to be suitable for the environment it is installed, you will have to take provision for tree grow not damaging the cable

Not sure what a rafter void is. But you can run standard cable to the meter, then outside in SWA via an adaptable junction box. You will need to rate the cable for desired load, method of route and distance of run.

If the terminals are not enclosed within the fitting, therefore exposed to accidental contact. Then they must be enclosed.

Yes would you think they would make sure they took pictures of a neat jobs/work. Exposed live conductors and no earth sleeve. I have picked up on this is stores before.

Yes the Deboxes will be fine, I would also recomend striping the earth back, sleaving an terminating to the box. @333rocky333 The absence of BS5733 on the tech spec, would leave me suspicious of MF claims.

The square within a square does mean there is no earth connection required. To clarify. It is the live and neutral terminal connector that requires enclosing. Changing the lamps should really make no difference either way, regarding safety. You would need to terminate the earth to the light...

Will have to remember that, for the next time the Missus is loading the fridge with a folk lift truck.

Bulk head or fluorescent with a diffuser, should be safe enough to stop harm. Not the smelly type diffusers neither.

If you could think of replacing the double socket with a fused connection unit, then you could spur of that.

Firstly it would be wise to confirm if it is ring final or a radial circuit. Radial circuits are less complicated to spur from. With some alteration to cables and swapping the existing socket for blank plate, things can be done. There are other regultions to follow as you are really adding a...

The plastic nut on the top side of valve will unscrew, there is a pin and washer enclosed, if the washer is split or debris blocking. It can cause slow filling, replace or clean.

The downlight cans/fittings are not With regards to earthing, depends on the class of fitting class I require earthing but double insulated do not. Yet the terminals shown are unsafe regardless of omitted earth. Could you post a picture of the data printed/stuck on the fitting Again depends of...