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No - replace the twin and earth for 3 core and earth.Permenant live to L, switched live to SL and neutral to N are some common terminal identifiers Sarah

Unfortunately you need a neutral as well as a live to make the light work so unless you are lucky and there is a neutral at the switch you will have to find a neutral from the same lighting circuit from somewhere else Sarah

As you have said fit a label to it Sarah

At an educated guess I would say Red to C then link a piece of red from that C to the other C.Then yellow to L1 and blue to the other L1. Sarah

It is not the socket itself but the fact that the cooker elements can have some earth leakage in use causing operation of the RCD Sarah

How was/is the original switch connected up.Have you read the instructions - that can sometimes help! Sarah

Are the fluorcescents fitted with electronic starters that could have possibly been damaged by a voltage surge Sarah

Why don't you just call your electrician back? Sarah

Earthed steel conduit is the only real option and probably galvanised at that if it is to be intially buried in wet plaster!

Is this 3 core cable new?How was it all connected up before?Was it just one-way? Sarah

Can I relinquish my membership please :lol: :lol: :lol:

I would take the cable out altogether Sarah

How have you connected them up at the moment? Sarah

Or crimp each wire with through crimps as these will take up less room than connectors but you would need to use the ratchet style crimpers rather than the horrible 'manual ones'!

That would have to be 4mm² as it is not mechanically protected! Sarah

Do you know the size of the cables you are trying to terminate.How many cables are there? Sarah

Do not connect those lights to that circuit.The earth is as you are probably aware there for safety and needs to be connected.An electric shock is a possibility if a metal fitting requiring an earth is connected up without one if a fault were to occur Sarah

If the immersion heater is on its own circuit, is a standard 3kw type and you are sure it is the switch at fault then you will need a 20amp double pole switch with a flexible cable outlet.It is up to you wether or not you would like a neon on it but it does help you see at a quick glance if it...

All the clues lead to the fact there could be a loose connection in the landing ceiling rose (or possible damage to cable between landing and rest of circuit) This assumes that the landing light is the first on the circuit from the symptoms you have given. As others have said if nothing is...

I would agree Lectrician that the easiest way is to take the lighting feed to the switch, join the neutrals together in a connector, earths together in the terminal at the back of the pattress and obviously switch the lives