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Capping is not mechanical protection - it's primarily there for two reasons - one as a method of holding the cables against the wall, and second to protect against the plasterers trowel (although many plasterers dispute this). This is why you can get PVC capping as well as metal etc...

I'm no expert, but the obvious thing to check is is the drainage connection OK - if it's blocked up or goes too high or whatever then the machine won't be able to drain quickly enough, which might explain it overflowing?

It might be worth checking all your plumbing around the dishwasher and washing machine - if you have a small leak somewhere then perhaps it's what has caused the trips?

I think the answer here is that the grey T&E isn't going to a switch, but probably to another connection somewhere, i.e. it's the supply to the downlighters circuit (a 'spur' off the lighting loop if you want)... Edit to add: metering it might make it appear as a switch cable as if the...

I'd be surprised if you can get your own gas person (it would be Gas Safe now not Corgi) to move the meter, as surely to do so would require isolating the supply (unless you're allowed to leave the original isolator where it is or something mad) - however, I'm not an expert in this area...

Main equipotential bonding (MEB) is ensuring that there are bonds to things like the incoming gas and water pipes. Bonding things in the bathroom is supplementary bonding, which as I stated is not required as long as the conditions are met. Basically, as long as you haven't got any plastic...

There hasn't been a requirement to do supplementary bonding in a kitchen for a long time, for a bathroom the requirement is still there, but you don't have to do it if (wording of these may not be quite right - I haven't got regs to hand to verify): 1. All circuits in the bathroom are RCD...

It can't have live feeds from both circuits, if it did then even when you turn off the MCB for your ring main all sockets on the ring would remain live, as there would still be a connection to the lighting circuit through the spur...

a 30A fuse won't blow as soon as you go just over 30A - it would only blow if you either went massively over (e.g. a short circuit or whatever), or you run slightly over it for a long period - given showers are typically 10 minutes or so, it doesn't blow. (I'm sure someone else will be able...

Can you upload a pic of the cable and the connection on to the lighting circuit?

Stop trying to convince yourself that the fitting is OK - it's not and needs to be removed or an electrician called in to rewire! As for the lightswitch, does it have an earth terminal, if so then in general it will need to be earthed, and again, either needs to be removed or an electrician...

A mains shock is sufficient to kill you, whether it does or not depends on a whole variety of factors (e.g. how good the conductivity is between you and the voltage source, between you and 'ground', whether it travels across your heart etc), but no mains shock is 'safe'. It's not going to...

The earth or CPC (Circuit Protective Conductor) is there to keep you safe, if the light fitting requires one, then you *must not* use the fitting without one. What you have done has the potential to kill somebody, as in the event of a fault, the fitting could become live (even when it appears...

Are the 3 wires twisted together, as that often makes it take up more space overall than just putting them in next to each other?

My house has two ring finals, both of which are split across upstairs and downstairs. In particular, the sockets in the kitchen are split 50/50, which given they tend to get a fair amount of load (kettle, dishwasher, washing machine etc) makes sense. Obviously if you have a dedicated kitchen...

Might be worth measuring what the voltage is between the MET and the copper pipe (obviously with the power off as you'll have to disconnect the bonding to do so) - might help to try and identify what's going on...

OK yes, my bad - it's having a significant potential difference (voltage) between the PME earth and the copper pipe, such that some (probably quite small) current flows as it is able to overcome the high resistance joint by arcing... Having said that, if there is such a significant PD, then...

I should point out I'm not an expert here, but it sounds dodgy to me - if there was visible arcing then obviously a not insignificant amount of current is flowing between the PME earth and the copper pipe. If it's happening with the main switch off then it implies that it isn't being caused by a...

Oh hang on, 3.3kW, that's more than 13A so ignore me - looks like cooker connection plate is the right answer there then...

Just to clarify ColJack I assume you would recommend the OP uses a 13A FCU rather than just a cooker outlet as shown in the picture, if the oven is only expecting a 13A feed?