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If that runs outside anywhere, then it definitely shouldn't be used, as T&E is not rated for outdoor use... It's also not generally designed to be wired in to a plug - it's meant for permanent installs within a building.

The simple answer is unfortunately no. Firstly, any outdoor electrical work is notifiable under Part P of the building regs (see the wiki for more info). More importantly, without knowing what the cable is (i.e. how much current it can carry), how (if at all) it's protected from the...

Speak to the supplier, assuming you have good credit etc they'll probably be happy to replace the pre-pay meter with a credit meter, and if you're really lucky they won't charge you for the privilege...

I'm not sure what the actual regs say, but is it a metal desk, as if so it seems reasonable to earth the desk directly if the four way is mounted to it, since you wouldn't want a fault potentially making the desk live...

My LABC initially tried to tell me I'd have to arrange the testing myself, but as soon as I quoted the relevant bit of Approved Doc P at them, they agreed and said OK, yes we'll sort out the I&T - presumably they try and fob off those who haven't read up on it properly, but if you know what...

Not if you need them to sign off and give you a completion certificate they can't!

My mate wants a dimmer on the circuit, so a soft start dimmer sounds like it would be perfect - I didn't know such things existed...

They are designed to be dimmed, and since it happens also with a switch, I don't think that's the issue. I also thought it was very odd that it tripped a C-type, the circuit has a few other lights and a bathroom fan on it, but all the lights are energy saving bulbs (and it trips with them all...

Hello, I've been trying to help a friend out today who's been doing up his house (yes he's notified the electrical work to the LABC etc). In his kitchen, he's put up two sets of these - http://www.wickes.co.uk/Zepher-5-Light-Cable-Track-Kit/invt/195289 - each set has a 175W transformer...

I'm not an expert by any means, but it's possibly a safety cutout (in case the thermostat fails closed and the temp keeps going up and up). I do hope after what people said in one of your other threads that you're not planning on trying to make what's there work - the wiring is certainly well...

If it's less than 50mm from the surface of either wall, and there's no accessory (socket, switch etc) to indicate its presence, then it isn't in a safe zone (i.e. there is a risk someone could drilling a hole in the wall will hit it, as there's no indication it's there). If there's more than...

It doesn't quite work that way I'm afraid... If you're replacing an existing fan, with no new fixed cabling then that wouldn't be notifiable, however, replacing a ceiling rose with downlights most certainly is. Under Part P you have to notify your LABC *before* you do the work, they will then...

If it's only got two terminals, then that would imply it expects a permanent live. I somehow doubt they're not marked L/N however - what does the manual for the fan say? I'm confused as to how you could have it wired such that switching the light on turns the fan off - unless you've somehow...

It depends how clued up the solicitor is, but essentially if it's obvious that notifiable electrical work has been done since Part P came in (e.g. in your case if you point out that the kitchen / bathroom have been re-done recently or whatever on the marketing), then a good solicitor will want...

When you say cavity - what do you mean exactly here, as there may be a safe zone issue? Is this going straight up from the floor behind the skirting, or along the skirting (if the latter then it will be out of a safe zone most likely)?

The 'legal' thing to do at this point is to notify it to your LABC as a regularisation - you'll normally have to pay a higher charge than if you were just notifying it straight off (e.g. with my LABC regularisation means you pay 120% of the charge if you were notifying properly in advance)...

If you're sure nothings tripped in the CU, then the most likely cause is either a failed pull cord switch, or possibly just a bad termination in it. If you're happy to do it, then isolate the power to the shower circuit at the CU, open the pull switch, test to ensure it's isolated etc, then see...

I'm not an expert by any means, so I might be completely wrong here - but is there not a chance that although it's in plastic pipe, the water itself might conduct to some extent?

Doh, I see you're already aware of the zoning - I really should read posts more thoroughly!

Note also that the space under a bath is classed as zone1 if accessible without a tool (e.g. if it's one of those plastic sides that just pops in and out), at which point an FCU or whatever isn't allowed under it. If it's a proper side that would require a tool to open then it's out of zones so...