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I doubt one exists, never come across one. So alternatives are: *use a spacers *sink a deeper box, I tend to put 35mm in. *don't fit a dimmer

And 30mA RCD protection is also required, as would have been on all newly installed sockets, and very likely on most newly buried cable. Plus inspection and testing.

To complete the installation correctly, tests of the circuit worked on are required, to confirm that those reading comply with the ones given in BS7671. Were this tests made and does the circuit have 30mA RCD protection? The reverse side of the wall can only be used to extend the safe zone if...

I would expec it would be designed to give a room temperature of between 18c and 23c.

Simply answer, would be to calculate the output of the UFH in that area and deduct it from you overall calculation.

Not all, just by saying you did not need help of an electrician a little hypocritical. After all someone is going to have to test, connect and commission the work for you. Which cannot be done via a forum, I would always recommend contacting the electrician that you are employing to do this...

But some electrical knowledge is required, or why would you be asking these questions on here? You still need to select the correct containment and method for the installation to comply and serve it's purpose. So in those term you need an electrician or at least an informed person.

That be true, but not the question that was asked.

Is this after or before the electrical installation? If before run a duct in the floor, to contain cables. There maybe issues with mechanical protection though if you cannot get a depth of 50mm or more. As above, would be wise to make provisions for other eventualities.

These are all assumptions and speculation, I find it hard to believe this can be established without. (1) looking inside the distribution box/CU and (2) doing some dead tests. What evidence do you have of a recent rewire? I am insure if this is a recent purchase and proof of any historical...

I think spending a little money, to address your concerns would be wise. Have you just moved into this property? As already been mentioned, it is not unusual to come across an installation that has just one socket circuit, one lighting circuit, one cooker circuit and a circuit for immersion. I...

Yes. OK you say the drier has been disconnected, does that mean unplugged or just switched off at the socket? If still plugged in, unplug it. That may stop an RCD tripping. It could if there was dodgy contacts between plug and socket or at the socket.

It would likely best just to buy the one product to do the patching. Instead of buying various bags of plaster. I would use one coat plaster, but don't be fooled that you only require one coat/application of it. But the hole needs bulking up, is the wall a hollow/stud wall or a solid one. some...

There will be some holding lugs on the connector, they will need to be gently pushed or prised away to release what looks like a male connector.

Probably the extra GBPs, also has a baring on the DIYers section.

You need at 450mm from the toilet connection to the drain invert bend at the bottom of the soil stack. If you do not have this, you cannot directly connect to the stack. You will have to make allowances for the fall from the toilet to the stack, which is a minimum of 19mm per metre.

You can install cables only where permitted by the safe zones or mechanical protection must be used if less than 50mm in walls.

Bathroom/Cloak Room Basins 32mm trap, Kitchen sink 40mm trap (Normally)

Do you the age of the fixed wiring, it may not be able to make it safe. Probably a good idea to have circuits tested first, then it can be accessed what issues you may have. You are having a new CU installed, so those initial tests will come in helpful for that. Probably not. Oh dear, it is...

You can do either, but you do not want any movement in basecoat. So it can still be damp, but set.