Search results

You need to fill the entire hole. Is it cavity walled? Probably not at 25cm. Is access to the wall outside possible?

Yes. You might want to explore alternatives, because a lot of silicones will crack with movement, and you don't want air infiltration. E.g. polymer based sealants . Whatever you choose it should be expensive - this is an external part of your building fabric so don't skimp. Foam is there are...

Yep! Thanks.

Turns out the contacts weren't lining up properly! They must be really quite sensitive... they were only about 5mm out of line.

Thanks very much. Can you explain a little more about what you mean by "twist the wires together"? Do I have to take the contact apart? I'm fine with that, but very inexperienced with alarms. All I have done so far is change the battery. Do I need to turn off at the fuse box? Will try just "full".

I am trying to get a Veritas 8 alarm system to set. This system was installed by a previous owner. When I enter my code, prior to pressing "Full", the zone 1 light is on and the unset light flashes. If I then press "Full", the panel bleeps with one bleep probably about a second apart (maybe a...

Is that a totally internal wall? If not, shouldn't the bricks be parge coated first for air tightness?

You need a vapour barrier, especially if fibrous batts are used for the insulation. By insulating internally you are making the external wall colder, so if water vapour gets through the wall covering (it will) and then past the insulation (it will) it will condense on the external wall. Do...

Thanks all. By "rake out" do you mean take a plasterboard saw along the cracks? That's what I planned to do. Sorry if I'm asking too many questions.

Nice idea. So should I expect there to be a lot of resistance to them being pushed flat? I cannot push them flat at the moment. The question is whether screwing them will manage to push them into a flat plane.

I didn't explain this brilliantly but the boards do not push all the way flat. Not sure if you would expect them to... they push up a bit but then spring back. With no obstructions to the joist I think it's something (a bit of plaster) in one of the cracks that is stopping the boards going...

I was a bit worried a picture would not show the bulge, but here you go. Looking along the ceiling: The board on the left is slightly lower. Looking straight up, note the fixing to the joist that has popped at the top right: There's a piece of plasterboard I have slotted in...

I stepped on my plasterboard ceiling on Sunday when in the loft. D'oh! There is a small half credit card sized hole and some cracks leading to it. If it were just this hole it would be easy to fix, but there's more. The hole is right on the edge where two plasterboard panels meet. Both...

I understand your point and you are right to highlight the safety implications. However I do think everything needs to be closed off and these details addressed when it comes to insulation and air tightness. Back of a fag packet calculations. Assume leaf U=2 and 2236 degree days. That's...

I don't intend to threaten my life! I'll probably just make do with going from the loft. There aren't enough other jobs that need doing there that justify getting scaffolding. Strongly disagree about not adding extra insulation! We all have to do our bit.

I am vertically challenged so... I have roof hooks. If I put one ladder on the top roof, overhanging the eaves... that could work, but the ladder would need moving a lot.

See the image: I want to access the tiles on the upper roof above and between the two windows, in the middle of the photo. This is to make it easier to strip back the felt and apply insulation maintaining ventilation gaps. See...