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If you have 21 rads of average size then a 15mm backbone whether copper or plastic is not going to cut it TBH - that will take an age to heat up properly and could be a real PIA to balance properly. It also would be a must to have 22mm primaries if a cylinder is to be fitted. I have no idea what...

Nope - unless they can grind out the whole crack there is nothing really that will stop cracking from getting worse. Very low profile - not surprised it's cracking if it's down to 10mm with nothing underneath it. Says who? I've taken out and replaced loads of tray's and baths and only ever had...

If that happened right after the install then TBH that's when it should have been taken up with the installer. It would be interesting though to know what the installation instruction detailed with regards to the install method, I have seen a manufacturer mention using expanding foam (can't...

+1 - Not what you want to hear but - once they are cracked then really it's time to change, the trouble is the existing cause would still be there so those cracks would invariably return. do the crack fully penetrate and is the tray leaking through? As far as the section removed from the ply...

I don't think the Unistor has an internal baffle, I believe it uses an external EV. Nope, 'fraid not - a vented cylinder needs a header 'tank' as in a F&E. You can't set it up just to heat the water via the coil and then just pump it to the rad without a vent as it's primary safety outlet...

Do you mean re-purpose it as a vented cylinder or even a thermal store (TS)? Guess it could be done, it would need a header tank to keep the store topped up and a location to vent to and then pump the rad water through the coil. Using a 40Kw diesel boiler though is madly oversized just to...

If there's one thing you can be sure of, it's a mid position valve whose motor will eventually burn out. Honestly, as suggested, get it changed over to an S plan, much more straightforward.

What size is the cylinder? If it's a direct unvented cylinder greater than 30L then it really should be serviced by a qualified individual, they aren't really DIY territory.

CWSC - Cold Water Storage Cistern - this is the large cold water container that holds the largest volume of water, usually in the loft, to supply the HW cylinder and sometimes cold water to a bathroom, it is also where the HW cylinder vent can terminate into F&E cistern - Feed and expansion...

Depends ..... You'd need to get in there and see what's gone. If it's just the impeller then you may be able to replace it. That being said I know that salamander did do o-ring seal, mechanical and electric repair kits, not sure they would still do them though.

I'd be asking for a full written report on what he has done, what he found and why it needs replaced at that price. Could be a number of reasons why the CO reading is excessively high and most should be adjustable/repairable and if it isn't then I'd want him to please explain why not.

Well yep, that layout is a bit of a mare - could have been made a lot more intuitive by connecting each of those 22mm's together creating a single looped circuit. If the current runs could be coupled without too much of an issue then that would probably go a long way to evening out the system...

If the HW pressure and flow is fine then it's nothing to do with the unvented. As the unvented is controlled by the combination valve (CV) and if that was at fault then the HW would also be effected. I would probably be looking more towards the kitchen tap and the pipework @ that location...

System design could be an issue - if you have unusually long runs on the backbone and it's split to 2 opposite ends of the property. Central heating should be so designed whereby most of the flow is performed by the larger backbone, ideally in a circuit or to a central location and then the...

I hate it when supposed professionals say that - with an unvented cylinder you only get out what goes in. The ~ 12L/Min tested @ the kitchen, was this with other outlets open at the same time to give a true dynamic reading? If an unvented may have the need to run say 2 showers at the same time...

New(ish) boiler so pump should be fine. With 28mm pipes running down to a 22mm backbone and then into 15mm feeds then there should be minimal system resistance. If everything is taking ages to warm up and the boiler's reaching set temp before the heat reaches the rads then I'd suspect either a...

At least - the more space then the better for heat transfer into the air travelling up rather than being absorbed by the wall.

Any plumber that performs shower installs wouldn't find it an issue, As long as there's no issue will disassembly then it should be down and up in a day. I've done 2 in the last month.

No - the boiler modulates down to maintain the output set temps 75deg these days is a bit too hot TBH and If the boiler is overshooting its target temp, then there may be a flow/circulation issue. TBH though it could also be that the system hasn't been balanced properly and that's adding to the...

If all the other radiators are the same type with the same valves and they all warm up TRV 1st, then chances are that one would be the same. That would have been the pipe layout the installer would have adopted when they were installed. If they are mixed then you would need to test that one.