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No - the way the current thermostat works just now depends on what boiler it is. Some boiler use a 240v Switched live (SL), other use what's called a 0 volt or dry contact. Chances are you have a SL so one cable would go live when the programmer calls for CH heat. Could it work like that...

Yes - As suggested The DT4R receiver needs power, your current thermostat cabling doesn't provide that, so that would be taken away and it would need to be connected into the CH system's wiring centre where it can be supplied with 240V. Unless the current stat location is close to the wiring...

Ok - that's a strap on boss, looks like someone had a boss adapter in there with a grey blank into that, if its now missing chances are someone forgot to glue it and it's been blown out. All you can really do is replicate that, get a solvent weld 40mm boss adapter glue that in and then a 40mm...

Have to disagree with you there - these old fittings do not go quietly, that's been on there from the word go. Also highlighted by the fact that the old original brass nut from the old cast trap has been left on the shank of the waste. It obviously didn't want to come quietly either so was just...

For an indirect cylinder to be heated by a CH boiler it needs at least 4 tappings. One at the bottom for the cold feed, 2 usually a 1/3rd of the way up for the primary flow and return to the coil and a HW outlet at the top. If it doesn't have the tappings a 1/3rd of the way up then it's not an...

Not inadequate per sé but ideally 22mm up to G6. The best practice for any central heating system is to minimise imbalances and maximise flow, especially when the run length become longer. The ideal is to have a 22mm backbone to a central location on any given floor and then all the 15mm feeds...

I'd say that's more likely to an old lockshield ISO valve, if so then yes it could be changed after isolating all the water. Use a good quality ISO valve. While you're at it put one on the cold supply too, good for servicing if any when required.

Hmmmm - old bath with a lead sealing collar. You may find one that once off, if that nut will actually undo and come off, which is debatable, that the bath waste will probably be rusted through. Given the tooling marks on the bath trap and the old nut from what would probably have been a cast...

Where is the cold water cistern? Is it in the same place? Could be the cistern filling. If it's rented then any concerns should be taken to the landlord and ask them to explain what's going on.

If there are no flow and return tappings on the cylinder to allow the boiler to be connected to the cylinder and it only has 2 immersion elements then it has to be a direct cylinder only heated by electricity. That being said if there is a 2 port and a primary flow and return to the cylinder...

Just reading this again too - you want to avoid taking 15mm out to any more than 2 average sized rads and even then if they are miles away then that's to be avoided due to the drop in pressure and balancing issues. What I meant is as long as the run to a rad isn't overly long then 15mm will...

It may be but pressure should show to be up @ around 3 bar if the EV was causing it. A 3bar PRV should start lifting around 2.8bar, especially a new one. Gauge needs checked IMO

Oh and do note - if the old rad was a convecting type, the new one probably won't heat the space as effectively as the new one. Unless the space is small and/or narrow.

More like this I would think to even it all up. Then 22mm up and out into the loft. If the loft is struggling to heat up then a supplementary pump may be solution to overcome the height

Sorry but that doesn't really make sense to me, especially given your layout diagrams. Grnd floor - a 22mm spine right up the middle with 15mm supplies out to the rads - just because they are 5m doesn't matter, it's the similarity of the lengths that would matter, even then a m or 2 out...

OK - the rule of thumb is - 22mm run from top to bottom and out onto each floor and then branch out in 15mm to each rad on each floor. Try and keep the 15mm runs similar lengths, this will allow the rads to heat up at similar rates. Ideally you would have 22mm on each floor running out to a...

Copper is proper and if you can solder then fire away. If you can't then it could be push fit but still use copper - so yes, tee off the supplies then an elbow up to the shower height, another elbow and copper tails through for the shower.

All depends on how good your tenant is I guess. If they look after things then can go a little more expensive, if they don't then don't.

If it's the standard and correct PRV rated @ 3bar for that boiler and it's still lifting @ 2 bar then chances are it's the gauge that's wrong. Can a new PRV be faulty, yes but I'd be tempted to investigate the gauge too. While you're at it get someone qualified in to service the unvented.

It's not the boiler, it's getting the heat from the boiler out to the system in general and getting the radiators to all heat up quickly, efficiently and as much as possible, all at the same time. 15mm will work, eventually, the system will be slow to heat up and the rads furthest away will...