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Fair enough then, so if the rcd starts leaving us in the dark on a regular basis then its not a simple job to replace. Well so far its only nuisance tripped once since we bought the house last summer so I'll keep my fingers crossed for the future. Thanks again for all the help Phil

Cheers guys. Unfortunately, although I have various leads and clips that fit my multimeter all I have for my loop tester is a flex with a plug on the end and a single probe that plugs into a 3 or 4 mm jack on. It's an anologue Robin 4111. It has 100 Ohm and 2 Ohm modes but both trip the rcd...

:oops: :oops: :oops: Sorry you are of course right, if it makes you feel any betterI'm the only one in the house and it's only like that so I could have my pc on to send these questions and take photos. But of course I should have closed it up before turning on the power to stick my pc...

it is metal cased yes, and you are right there are no gromets. That's going to be another fun job. Okay, I seem to have everything sorted out as far as my system is concerned (although I'm not sure my distributer will agree with me, maybe I'll have to phone them again) All i wanted was a...

Sorry edited cos I've just worked out what is going on. I seem to have a TT system. Below is a pic of my RCD opened up, click for larger version the earth cables on the bottom go to the electrode and the CU

One image, just click it to open a larger version in a new window. The wiring inside the CU is a little untidy but it's just how I found it except for one end of the ring main that I replaced to put one of the new sockets in and everything seems in order. In the large image you can see 2...

Just checked what was is written on the fron, got the first rating wrong sorry. It says "80 A I(triangle)n 0.03 A~ (Ohm)" the bits in brackets are symbols that I can't type. I was presuming that the two ratings were the two protection levels of an RCBO, but could the 80 A be a max overload...

Hi all, was hoping you might be able to lend a hand. First my system. I've got a TN-C-S system, there is a CU with rewirable cartridge fuses and between the CU and the meter is a 30A/30mA RCBO. I've just fitted 3 new plug sockets and am testing everything. As I've been going down my...

No I don't have a washing machine in my bathroom. I was referring to main bonding, rather than supplimentary bonding when talking about the washing machine. Okay so as far as I can gather, anything where there is a run of plastic between the copper pipe and the stopcock (which is steel back to...

Thankyou for the fast reply RF I did not search first, my appologies. I seem to have missunderstood the definition of extraneous. I always thought that the point of bonding was to trip your rcd in the (seemngly very unlikey) case that the pipework became live due to a fault in the house...

Hi everyone, looking for advice on bonding. My central heating system uses both plastic and metal pipes, so I've bonded all the metal parts but wasn't sure about the bathroom. The bathroom radiator has metal pipes leading into some wooden boxing then turns to plastic. My question is does it...

May be better for your home's next owner too if you put a higher rater dimmer in. Once you sell the place the next owner isn't going to know that the dimmer is only rated to 125W, he/she will just see the 50W rating on the lamp fitting and will probably use these when the bulbs blow. I...

Hi Sorry this is a similar thread to http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=327713#327713 but slightly different. I'm similarly wiring up some SELV lighting in my kitchen and was trying to work out which cable to use. They were supplied with 0.75mmsq twin flex, similar looking to speaker...

Don't know if you ever sorted your thermostat, but we put in an ideal mini 24. Got a thermostat from B+Q, volts free as required £20. Out of 20 or so they had only two stated volts free, plus we ended up at B&Q because our local plumb merchant didn't have any volts free thermostats. Don't know...

***Sorry posted in wrong place. Moved to new thread***