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The history is one carefullish owner from new, never been thrashed and genuine mileage. (I've known it from new) It's not like there was a load of material in there, I've been running it for a while since doing the plugs, and when I did the comp.test at the weekend just gone there was a bit of...

I have this vehicle and it's running on only three cylinders. No 2 is out (ie, second from flywheel, I believe that's how Renault count!) I replaced the coil packs with no joy, and on changing the plugs I found small shards of metal and a bit of oil on the no 2 plug. I've carried out a...

You could dot and dab your aqua panels on to save space. But you'd have to back up the adhesive with mechanical fixings after it had set, such as hammer fixings.

Nothing wrong with dot and dab, although I prefer my boards to be fixed to battens. It's all in the planning ahead really. Dryline Pro for the win.

I'd be wary of letting this bloke into my shed never mind my house.

You are indeed right. But just to clarify, they are for dot and dabbed solid walls, not stud walls. You just drill an 8mm hole through the board and into the wall, screw the plug in flush with the board, and then fix to that. They are not necessary if you locate a dab of adhesive of course, you...

You'll need a large loft hatch to get boards up there.

It looks like a shortage of scrim. You could cove the ceiling lines for an easy fix. I'd chip a band of skim off the other crack wide enough for scrimming, pop a few extra screws in, scrim and easifill/sand. Then decorate. The crack on the wall looks like settling to me. You could probably just...

Or you could use these - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dryline-Plasterboard-Fixings-DRYLINE-DOT-N-DAB/dp/978802498X/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1325844424&sr=8-4 This is a fantastic product which takes all the hassle out of dot and dab wall hanging. Every van should have a pack! But don't get them from...

There's no shortage of advice hereabouts regarding the folly of replacing lime plastered wall coatings with gypsum products, invariably with reference to the breathing of said walls. So, what's the consensus, if indeed there is one, with regard to battening and overboarding the same said walls...

I would say you bought the right to use it at home for karaoke, but not for public broadcast, which is effectively what you are doing by putting it on Facebook.

Well quite. And is that not essentially what the op of this thread has got now the wallpaper is off? I really don't know what your problem is and I can't be bothered arguing with you. It wasn't my pva link, I'm certainly not trolling, and I've provided several links which concur with my...

Here's 3 examples. roughcaster roy c PrenticeBoyofDerry From 3 experienced pros. I can find many more. another one from roy c And from PBoD.

Yes it would. First coat 5/1 water/pva put on, allowed to dry. Second coat 3ish/1 pva/water put on, skimmed while tacky. As advised by an untold number of plasterers on this very board.

Who mentioned skimming dry pva? I'm just assuming "badly damaged walls" may need some sorting out the evening before skimming at least.

Oh sorry, I see what you mean, I thought you meant pva and skim all on the same day, yes to no problem if you do the first pva app the night before!

I don't see how that can be done if the first coat of pva is left as long as it should be.

Just allowing it to adapt to the humidity of the room by being in it. Mdf doesn't in my experience move as much as pine, but I have occasionally seen it shrink a little after fitting.

That router is trying too hard to be a DW.

Imo, good choice, I've used loads of this stuff and found it a good product. It's still worth conditioning it for a day or so in the room it's to be fitted in. And I always cut it to fit and then decorate it on a few sawhorses before fixing it. Saves having to faff around cutting in at the floor...