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Is that him in the photo?

I have a nest in my chimney which has been active for years and although I've waited for this year's brood to fly I am now trying to dig it out. I have removed about 3 feet of material which is as far as I can reach, but there is still a load in there. A chimney sweeps site said it might be...

Assuming that's a dot and dabbed wall, (I can't quite make it out) fill then Dryline Pro for the win.

You don't say what car you have. But yes, it must be the wishbone one, the other one would be called the track rod end. You can replace the whole thing for about 40ish quid, which obviously includes new bushes too. But you could probably change just the joint for about £20. I'd change the whole...

I had a clunky sound on a Mark 3 Fiesta once which turned out to be an engine mounting. To diagnose this get a helper to engage gear with the handbrake on and slowly release clutch while you observe the engine bay. The torque will lift the block off the mounting. An easy fix if so.

I'll hazard that the lawyers tell them to put that just to cover themselves. I must admit I've never actually used the Silverline one that I linked to, but I have used loads of the old Metzeler type on mainly motorcycle tyres, but a couple of car tyres, and haven't had a single one fail. As a...

Fix it yourself for a fraction of that price. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-Tyre-Repair-Kit-380421/dp/B001QUN9UQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1367775039&sr=1-2&keywords=puncture+repair+kit

I've got an 02 Fiesta which has no remote locking, although it does have central locking. However, it's a Mark 4 so essentially a '95 model. That's the latest I can come up with...

Unlikely to be the starter motor or the battery if it's turning over as usual. Is it petrol or diesel? Could be the glow plugs if the latter.

Blimey, I'm glad I asked this now! Very interesting. Thanks a lot.

@ pompeyal - Yes, makes perfect sense. :wink: @ Mursal - Like the Tippex idea, but I've ordered the tool now anyway.

Well we didn't need the degree method in the olden days when I was on the spanners... :) And we reused the head bolts. A cynic might suspect an artificial backdoor subsidy for the bolt industry. Anyway, I've ordered the cheap Bergen one, hopefully that will do the job. Thanks chaps.

Lol, yes I'm aware the bolts need torquing down first! But it begs the question, why don't the manufacturers just put final torque values alone, like they always used to? I can't see how one way would be any more accurate than the other, relying, as they both do, on torque wrench accuracy albeit...

Is that Bergen one at the top of the page any good? I haven't got an ebay account but can get that one on Amazon. Laser do a similar cheap one but it has very poor reviews and seems liable to fall to bits.

It seems I need one of these to do a Scenic cylinder head, so can anyone recommend a budget one as I'm unlikely to use it much again? And why are torque wrenches alone no longer adequate?

Ok, I've done as said. 1.8 litres through the gearbox plug wasn't enough to start coming back out but more importantly I've run the van around and am pleased that the driveshaft seals, which I didn't bother renewing are not weeping. I would think this would be the first point of leakage if...

Thanks for your quick response Mursal. Having had a rethink and a good look, I now think that what I assumed to be the gearbox drain plug is actually the filling hole. (It's at the side, although quite low and with hindsight, no oil actually came out of it.) And that contrary to Russeks...

Hello all. I have just put a new clutch in my Boxer, ie a '98 1.9 litre non turbo. Having drained the box prior to removal I now need to refill level. The problem being - the Russeks manual states that my box has a dipstick in the diff housing near the speedo cable entry. However, it doesn't. So...

You might find it sells quicker if you pitch it in a slightly less patronising way..... :wink:

Excellent, just what I wanted to hear. Cheers Jonny... :wink: