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What about one of these http://www.dri-sil.co.uk/upvc_door.htm Universal over-box. Just fit over the top, no need to disturb the innards! Also do new doors etc. HTH Symo

Echo the other comments above. Great work Jasonb. Being able to combine technical expertise with artistic flair is a rare combination. Symo

Is the addition of a pubic hair for a strength test to be carried out at a later date? :wink: Symo

If you're planning to bin the old carpet, leave it in place whilst you remove the ceiling. Carpet is great at trapping dust! Before you start work go round and loosen the carpet from the grippers/tape and then you should easily be able to roll-up the whole mess when you're finished. Also...

Blimey, that looks EXACTLY like my house! Same back door, same units, same mess... Not a '77 Wimpey box per chance? At least ypu're a bit further on than me. I don't start plastering 'till after Christmas. Good luck. Symo

Ring your house insurance company and outline the problem to them. Most policies nowdays have legal cover and they will get on the case for you. Symo

The screed they are refering to is Latex Screed. This is self levelling and can be laid thinly, 3-5 mm. The carpet fitter should be able to do this for you at a reasonable cost. Symo

I've used Windowlene window cleaner in the past. It dries to a haze and is easy to remove when you want to. You can make it more or less opaque depending how thickly you apply it. The real bonus is that you get sparkley clean windows when you remove it! Symo

Are the trickle vents at the top of the new windows open? Symo

From the looks of your picture I'd say stripes down. But, there is also the question of pile direction. The pile should "fall" down the stairs. Bit difficult with a loop pile like yours but worth doing properly as it will affect the wear on the nosings a lot. Run your hand along the carpet...

Perhaps the seller made a few quick repairs to the floor, prior to the sale, and has used whatever adhesive he had to hand. This could be reacting with the original bitumen? Symo

Unless I'm missing something obvious, wouldn't it be far easier to bung a scread on the extension floor to bring it up to the level of the existing floor?? Symo

Thanks gcol. I'll get a small pot of the dark oak and give it a try. I guess this is one of those trial and error things when it comes to the colour. Cheers Symo

Thanks Zampa. Useful info on technique there. What I meant by adding black to the Walnut was to add Ebony stain to walnut stain from the same range. The problem I'm finding is that the Walnut stains are too red for my liking. I'm looking for a Black Walnut finish and can't seem to find one...

I'm looking to create a fairly good approximation of Black Walnut for about a dozen internal, glazed doors. Can't afford real walnut so I'm having some made in a, decent quality, clear pine. My thinking is to mix a little black with an off the shelf walnut stain, 2 coats, and then acrylic (maybe...

I'd be inclined to remove it. Won't cost any money, just a bit of time. Start by removing the glass and then work your way down. That way no-one gets hurt. Pain of glass on the head first thing in the morning can really ruin your day. Surveyors - nice work if you can get it. :roll:

Loads of sites here... http://www.homesources.co.uk/doors_doors.html HTH Symo

Perhaps, the "common point" you took your measurements from is not level? Have you tried taking a long straight edge across and using a spirit level on it? Symo

Yeah, and it'll probably be the thick end of £700! Gotta love monopolies. Symo

Thanks for the thoughts and tips people. I'll get on with it then. Cheers Symo