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even though youve had a new pressure relief valve it is still advisable to replace it whenever it has been passing, or at least remove it and give the valve seat a good clean and a wipe with silicone grease to ensure there is no dirt/grit on the valve seat which will cause it to pass water

lol yes i suppose, im new to this forum so what does OP mean? :shock:

good point, although as far as i am aware (i may be wrong here) most -if not all- modern TRV's are designed to work with water flowing in either direction.

my installations dont leak unless the isolation valves have been disturbed. with regards to your 'ham fisted moron' comment i can only say that it is obvious to tradesmen that they should not be over-tightened, but what about to the DIY installer??? after all we are on a DIY forum. and what...

it may be the pump, but the fact that it works intermittantly suggests to me that it is a boiler sensor fault. dropping the bottom cover to expose the PCB will reveal several LED's which will tell you if it is a sensor/harness fault (LED 3 will be flashing when the boiler cuts out)

it is possible, but the fact that you hear the sounds in the pipework leads me to believe that it is a system fault. however i may be worng

considering a 6/8 litre vessel charged to 1bar pressure is suitable for 75 litres of water content in a system I am sure it will be more than enough for most domestic systems, especially one ran off a bog standard 105

magnacleans are a good idea but are cheaply made. the plastic threads strip very easily unless you are careful, and they have since introduced new isolation valves and a new o-ring for the top cap as theyre all prone to leaking

if everything else has been checked (tap valves, ball valves etc) then the only other explanation is the cylinder. if the coil in the cylinder is corroded/split it will pass water from the heating system into the water tank. i would advise you had this checked as you dont want to be washing...

is your filling loop passing? what pressure are you filling your boiler to? if the pressure rises to 3bar on heating the expansion vessel may be flat/knackered. otherwise the pressure relief valve may be leaking

the system has NOT been properly flushed. the sound is most probably a build up of sludge in the pipework and the chemical reaction which results in the breakdown of the system produces hydrogen, which explains the air gathering in the radiator. get your plumbers back for a re-flush, or a...

possibly a PCB or NTC thermistor fault, hard to say, especially with a ravenheat

yeh you could easily put an external expansion vessel in the system. go for a 6/8ltr brefco external vessel. you will need a 3/4 to 22mm female BSP fitting to fit the top of the vessel, then you can either tee it straight into the flow/return pipe or reduce the 22mm pipe to 15mm and use a 15mm...

there could be a few things causing this problem. first, ensure the filling loop (assuming you dont have an integral one) is not passing water from the cold mains into the heating system. secondly, the domestic hot water heat exchanger (looks like a bottle mounted horizontally in the boiler)...

have you tried to bleed the air from the pump? there is a screw on the face of the pump (about the size of a 20p piece). if you loosen this a couple of turns (not completely) and hold some kitchen paper underneath to catch any drips you might bleed some air from the pump. if it is not air it...

What kind of Ideasl Classic is it? Sounds like it might be a boiler thermostat fault, if its the 'classic' im thinking of, there are three thermostats in the boiler, flow, return and a flue stat (which is located into the body of the fan). They are all connected to one wiring harness (blue, red...