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What type of test equipment have you got? If you've got a low reading ohm meter than as ricicle says A resistance measurement from a known good earth (MET) and the one your worried about would give you an indication. A long "wander" lead ie reel of cable may help.

Mike I'd tend to use a 4mm radial here, which will give you 26 amps or even 6mm giving 32 especially as it's probably a short run? As you say the motor on start up may draw some initial exra current. If you use 2.5 / 20amp then you've l'd think the cable won't be up to the job as it's working on...

depends how close the cooker is going to get to the cable but I'd say no without knowing all the details. Is it a built in jobby?

Since you've got hands on experience I'd tend to do a twelve week evening course on the 17th Edition when it comes out - an open book multi choie that shouldn't be too difficult for you then once this is gained 2391 Inspection and Testing for PIR work now that your getting on a bit :lol:

Appliances in kitchens do not have to have RCD protection. Not quite sure what you want to do. you can wire appliances via a fused spur outlet with flex if that answrs your question

refer to onsite guide pages 152 to 153 a non fused spur feeds only one single or one twin or muliptle socket outlet or one Permanently connected equipment.... If in doubt fit a fused spur.

yes, what other way did you have in mind?

could use a small distribution box or crimp.

Normally you have the incoming pair into the Master line jack and from it you then have three wires (the two speech wires plus the third wire for ringing), ran from the MLJ, sometimes it is easier for an installer to run a seperate wire from the incoming box rather than the Master line jack and...

Your friend would only normally have to check the earthing and bonding arrangements prior to completing the work since the customer didn't request a PIR or check on other equipment I'm at a loss as to why he should think the sparky mate you have should have checked all the exisiting cable. I...

I think this will get moved to the Electrics "Abroad section". how many cables are in the light switch first?

You could crimp joint the cable otherwise a new run will be necessary.

Not sure what you mean by Building inspector, is he not Part P registered or something?

As long as you can safely isolate it then you could attempt this yourself but be careful. At the very least £30 plus parts.

Make sure it's installed in a safe zone or is extra low voltage if you've no choice on it's siting. Normally a wall mounted one is easier to fit in my expereince as you don't have to go through the roofing.

http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/earthing_supplementary.htm the link might help you

Things that kitchen fitters do are often unacceptable :lol: ... but this one takes the biscuit http://groups.msn.com/SparkyHeaven/kitchenfitterfromhell.msnw

If you use this UNUSED cooker termination point then it would be best to replace this with a fused spur connection unit with a 13amp fuse otherwise the 2.5 cable probably won't be properly protected as the main breaker in the fuse board is likely to be too large. Often kitchen fitters utilise...

http://www.lowcarbonbuildings.org.uk/micro/wind/ have a look here. from most reviews i've read it just isn't worth it at present