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You'll have a very bent roof. Personally, I'd put in 3 A frames. You may just be ok with just one central one.

If you are wanting the edges ground, beveled and polished then that's why the quote is expensive. The pieces may well have to be sent to a specialist to get it done.

These are the best I've come across so far http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Power+Tool+Accessories/d80/Gold+Screwdriver+Bits/sd630/Wera+Gold+Bi-Torsion+Screwdriver+Bit/p51025

That is a much more sensible approach. You might want to pick up a 7mm as well for brown plugs.

Depends on your definition of decent but it doesn't generally come as a gazillion bits in a blow moulded plastic case. Decent bits are expensive e.g. http://www.uktoolcentre.co.uk/Power-Tool-Accessories/Drill-Bits/Dormer/

You'd better tell them about it when you get quotes even if you don't want them to remove it.

Pressure treated 4*2 or 6*2 as appropriate.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not arguing against brushless and I'm not suggesting there is any evidence of early failure. At the back of my mind is the quality of Chinese electronics which can be as good as you get but are often not. I doubt a normal diy-er will ever wear out the brushes in their...

I think that whoever it was is an interfering to55er and should do one. You're fine with 10 bags btw.

If it works at all a paddle mixer will be slower than shoveling it. I think a cement mixer is your only option.

I've had the 458 / 146 combination for a few years now and been both impressed and happy with them. They get far less use than my 10.8V driver and impact though. In fact the 458 is probably my least used power tool and usually only gets used for drilling steel or large holes in wood. The 146...

I'm not familiar with your machine. Unless a DW owner can chip in, a call to DeWalt or the place you bought it from is probably in order. I'd be looking for a replacement it it's new.

The gap that the blade leaves as it cuts. If something is out of kilter it may show in the cut. Have you checked for play in the spindle bearings or a loose blade? Do that first if you haven't already.

Then I'm as stumped as you. The only other thing I can suggest is to clamp both sides in place to examine whether there is a taper in the kerf.

I'm not entirely sure I've understood you but if the board you are cutting is not completely flat the bevel will be out of square so check that first.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p58410?searchstr=shear%20nut Grind or file flats on them to remove.

If it's branded Silverline then yes it can!

Finally got around to using it today and it's an absolute delight. Way better in use than my cheapo mains one. Recommended.

You need to buy or improvise a water level. A hosepipe with a clear container mounted at each end will do. Mount the uphill side at the level you want to start from and take a guess at the other end using stakes of some sort.. Fill with water and see if the downhill side overflows or is a no...

Yes, I always do them flush with the posts. I've never seen brackets for cant rails. Arris rail brackets should be about 80p each. It's not just rust resistance per se. The coating on decking screws is non metallic to better resist the corrosion that you get from the preservative in the wood...