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The brackets are galvanised and robust. If you are unconvinced, fix them with (decking - e.g. Screwfix Turbogold XT) screws and then they are easily replaceable.

If the position of the notches is an issue, just use plain posts and arris rail brackets.

Or even easier, a 6mm hole through into the slab and use concrete screws or bolts.

Use pressure treated timber if you want it to last. Why not copy the timber dimensions on the existing gate?

I'd use a blowlamp, scraper and wire brush.

Hopefully Clinton will be in Jail before the election.

From what you have said, I think you would struggle as a Handyman unless you were flooded with work and could pick and choose only the light jobs. Even if you are not carrying heavy stuff there is a fair amount of contorting inside tight spaces and going up and down ladders plus heavy toolboxes...

As long as the overhang on the roof is enough to cover the combined depth of battens and boards there shouldn't be an issue. If it's not damp now and not heated then I can't think of any reason to add damp proofing. The corners will need to be done carefully to avoid rain ingress and it would be...

It looks to me like the eaves are too short and water is running off the roof and down the walls, thus causing the damp issue. In which case, it needs modifying to give a greater overhang. Guttering may be another option to solve it.

Unlikely to cause damage I think. I've certainly never heard of any issues. One thing it will do though is make the wall very hot in summer so if your house gets stifling hot already on the few fine summer days we get then it can only make it worse.

If you haven't bought them yet, Toolstation have packs of 10 http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Screws+%26+Fixings/d90/Frame+Fixings/sd1950/Masonry+Torx+Frame+Fixing+Screw/p12879 They won't hold in soft mortar though.

Well I've ordered one. It's due tomorrow. Will report back once I get the chance to use it.

Thanks, I think I will go for it then.

Thanks all for the comments so far. I'm definitely swinging to cordless. It really is only light occasional use Joband knock - will the 180 cope ok with hardwood? E.g. planing down a sticking oak door?

Anyone use one? I've got a cheap mains one that isn't very good. It doesn't get used a lot but it's one of the few things I haven't yet upgraded. I only need it for small occasional jobs. I have a choice between a cordless Makita (body only) to use on existing 18V batteries or a mains one from...

I'm a bit guilty of brand snobbery as well but I do have a Parkside cordless detail sander that I've been pleased with. I'm not sure I'd take the risk for anything critical but as a cheap extra drill to reduce bit changing or for high theft risk areas it might be fine.

I'd be pretty similar to Burnerman for a custom made gate in pressure treated softwood. I think a standard 1.8*0.9 wooden gate could be made to fit though if 4" posts and a fillet were used so maybe £120 - £ 130 for materials (unless you want a fancy lock) and half a day for fitting.

You could contact local charities and see if you can help them out. I support a local hedgehog rescue by making nest boxes for them from offcuts and reclaimed timber and in the near future I'll be building a hedgehog hospital (glorified shed) for them.

Well I don't need a van or trailer. I thought I might when I started out but any big materials get delivered direct to site or to my workshop as appropriate. A roof rack is pretty handy though. If you haven't got a lot of money for tools, I'd much rather narrow the focus to one or two areas and...

Lol. The cameraman definitely needs a cold shower. Just makes me more depressed about how things are now.