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Not neccesarily a bad thing. The less governments do, the better life generally is.

A decent jigsaw with the pendulum action switched off.

Doh! Well spotted. I just googled 'exposed aggregate paving 400mm' and they came up in about the 4th link.

Just been queueing here. Ukip * 2 for mp, mayor and councillors. There is disproportionately strong support for Ukip on the other forums I frequent too. I guess we collectively tend to be independant minded free thinkers less easily led than the masses.

The posts will have rebar in them so the chances of screwing brackets directly to them are minimal. You would have to fix timber either side of them and screw to that.

Those posts look like they are for a chain link or similar mesh fence. So the cheap option is to re-wire them and attache chain link. Or you could probably bolt or screw timber posts to them and use arris or cant rails for a low close boarded fence.

I've had 50 years of the same old crap and I'm sick of it. I'm never going to vote Labour or Tory again. The Limp Dems don't seem any better and the Greens are loopy. So I'm voting UKIP in a safe Labour seat. If Labour get in, so be it. The sooner they finish the job of destroying the...

I asked because it looks very much like a lawn where a dog has been doing its business. You then get patches with too much nitrogen which stunts growth. If it has been going on the ground before you seeded it that may be the problem.

Never mind reciprocating saws, sounds like you need a chainsaw!

Do you have a dog?

An angle grinder is what you need. A multi tool with the right blade would cut them (slowly) but it won't grind them. See Bahco's post. Or for a cheap option that might work, put two nuts on, lock together and twist out with a spanner.

True, they do eat through batteries but it's not quite that bad. Last week I hacked up an 8*6 shed to reclaim most of the T&G from the roof and walls. It took just over one 4Ah battery. For hours of demo, mains is a must but it's very rare that the cordless isn't enough for me and sometimes...

Don't get me wrong, Hitachi are fine - I have some of their kit. It's perfectly good for light trade. The other consideration is ergonomics. I settled on Makita due to the range of tools but I prefer DeWalt ergonomics i.e their drills feel nicer in my hand. A big kit may be cost effective but...

How about these http://www.taranakipaving.co.nz/index.php?page=listings&categoryid=58&sco=7

Reciprocating saws are basically demolition saws. Sounds like you are constructing rather than deconstructing - so jigsaw. Then again, I wouldn't use a jigsaw for the sort of tasks you mention. That said, I would choose Makita over Hitachi for performance, quality and the range of other bare...

I favour Wera BiTorsion but I also have a Milwauke tic tac box of PZ2 that have lasted surprisingly well. I've seen several recommendations for the DeWalt ones too.

You'll be amazed at how much faster an impact driver is but make sure you use impact driver rated bits. You might be allright with PZ3 but it will eat cheapo PZ2's. A Wera BiTorsion bit holder is a good idea if you're willing to splash a bit more cash too.

Freud blades are very good. The one you linked to will be fine but personally, unless doing furniture grade work I'd go for less teeth for a faster cut and less strain on the motor. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p75581

If you are just ripping rough pallet wood, go for a 24 tooth blade. Less teeth give faster but poorer quality cut, more teeth = slower finer cut. It's the gaps between the teeth that govern how fast it will cut since that's where the sawdust has to go.

I only use the clutch for delicate stuff e.g. assembling flat pack furniture. There's no harm from not using it per se but if you are almost stalling the drill then doing it repeatedly is not going to be good for motor or battery. I think we need answers to big-all's questions. Old batteries...