Search results

Check the unit is rated at under 3kW (should be around 2kW) then there are two ways to go: 1. Fit a 13A fused plug to the washine machine power cable and then fit a single (unswitched is OK) socket outlet behind the machine, on the wall. Then connect this socket into your kitchen ring via a 20A...

Hmmm...what's the power rating of the washing machine? It's not an industrial one, is it?!

Yes, it seems it is...http://www.fun-with-words.com/acronyms.html but no mention of NIFOC....(never in front of children?) By the way, sorry Luckyman for this diversion from your topic...feel free to continue.

Thanks Adam, NIK....(now I know). IMHO your reply was the most useful, LOL :D

...sorry to interupt...IIRC??? Haven't figured out the meaning yet.

Update...the heat-shrink butt crimps from Rapidonline.com are the business, the bees knees.... they make a very secure conection and look smart - no dodgy sparky tape in sight!

Sounds like the same territory I was in recently, and as Job says, it's hard and extremely messy work. However, I used a Metabo dual diamond blade wall chaser with dust extraction. This reduced the dust in the air to a level where you could actually see what you were doing! Basically, most wall...

I'd say 3kW is the upper limit for an appliance connected via a 13A plug. The formula is Power=Volts x Amps, so for 230V (the recently changed nominal supply voltage, though you may well find that you still actually have 240V), you can run 230 x 13 = 2990 Watts. This is a little short of...

Parallel paths only exist where they make a complete circuit at the point of measurement. If you test, say, between the disconnected earth of a lighting circuit and the earth bar in the CU where the lighting circuit earth is connected, even with your main earth bonding and other circuits' earths...

The trouble with clipping to the side of the joists is there's often loft insulation there and little room for the cables, even at the top (thermal insulation touching the cable alters its current rating). I recently did a job where I nailed down some small planks running across the loft and...

I agree with RF. I went into this whole issue last year as I was completely rewiring an existing flat and my client didn't want the sockets and switches at the silly new heights. As it was not a 'new build', that particular aspect of Part M didn't apply, we reasoned. But ask someone from, say...

...however, I'm sure someone's going to add that if the 13A fuse blows then the 32A ring main protection fuse/MCB will also blow! This would of course, be if the fault causing the 13A fuse to blow was a result of a short circuit, or other overcurrent fault, rather than simply overheating.

Won't you be coming out of the supply side of the fire FCU to go to the lights FCU? In which case, if the 13A fuse in the fire FCU blows, that only affects the load side, so power will still be supplied to the other FCU.

The heat-shrink butt crimps you suggested are designed for immersion in various fluids, so they will actually be going over the top in my installation, but better too much protection... just hope they're big enough to cover the PVC sleeving too. It's gonna be fun, though, up on the ladder...

I've just gone ahead and ordered a bunch (I have a scary ability to spend money, but will try to get my client to pay!). It means I have to open the trunking again and redo several connections, but I feel that this method is more acceptable. I guess the heat shrink will go over the PVC...

Thanks Adam 151, they look just the ticket. Is 16p a pop expensive? Gimme half-a-dozen for the hotel room.....

Thanks. I'll search around for those heat-shrink crimps, unless you know where they can be bought, JohnD? Is regular electricians' insulating tape, suitably wound, not OK? It does claim to be 'insulating', though it does look untidy and suggests that a 'bodged job' may have been done, which...

Thanks. I'll come clean and admit that I've already made the joints using 'pro' crimpers. Concerned that if a wire worked loose (highly unlikely as there is no mechanical or other stress on the cables, and anyone trying to access the cables would have to unclip the lid with a tool), I then...

Guys - I wish to make connections between 2.5mm² T&E and 2.5mm² PVC insulated single core (ring main) and 1.5mm² T&E and 1.5mm² PVC singles (lighting) circuits within steel trunking (which is, of course, bonded to earth). This is a domestic job that has some circuits - grouping factors taken...

Hey Dannyboi, why don't you ditch all that IT malarky and become a real sparky!