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If you speak to Wylex they will tell you that when the units were manufactured they never had the technology for accuracy as they have today, so a ramp test can show that this device could trip with a very low leakage. Therefore it could be a bit of both. Did you remove all the neutrals in...

MK 5A Plug top has 5A fuse, 3A does not.

Lectrician, Just tried a 17in LCD, with DVD Player also Digibox, all lights on upstairs, total load not including TV 3A. 6A B Type Mcb, TV operates no problem!!!!!

If you are installing a 5A socket to your existing lighting circuit which will be a direct feed, install a switched 5A socket for local isolation, use lighting cable 1.0mm² or 1.5mm² Twin & Earth. What you plug into it, is down to you, anything less than 5A is suitable for the design of the...

OK, he fits the 5A socket as stated in his first post, can anyone tell me which BS7671 regulation he is not complying with ????? It's no good saying it's not right because you think it's not right, it may not seem right but what regulation does it not comply with. It's a 5A socket designed...

Sorry to say Bernard you are wrong, it is not good to do it, however it is no different at the end of the day than fitting a track light or triple spot light. If he fits a single socket with a 3A fuse and for good measure labels the socket TV only, it will work and be safe. If by chance a...

Regulation 412-06-02, states, Supplementary protection against direct contact by means of an RCD having the characteristics specified in Regulation 412-06--02 is to be provided for: • every socket-outlet rated at 32 A or less which may be reasonably expected to supply portable equipment...

I think the RF2 does not use terminal 4, so it's L, N, 1, 2, 3. If used on a combi with it's own switched output then use 1 and 3 on the RF2. It will also need a Live and Neutral that plays no part with 1 & 3. If used on a boiler requiring a switched supply only, then link Live to 1 and...

Under the proposed 17th Edition Regs, it will be all sockets for general use must have RCD protection. So I think a straight isolation switch for the cooker circuit will be the answer. However I have recently heard that Napit and Elecsa have been telling members the cooker point should be on...

It's the way I do it, spreads the load across rings, keeps cable lengths equal. Kitchen and bedrooms above on one ring, rest of house on another. If wiring a big house it makes sense to only go to each area of the house with a ring covering up and down at the same time.

Bernard, I have tried this with a 10A and 16A and the difference was very slight to nothing.

Start with switching off the heating system, it should have a switched fused connection unit. Once switched off, try resetting the trip, if it resets OK then it is the heating system and best to call out the Electrician.

60A HBC will take 180-300A before blowing under load.

Just replace the mcb with a 10A for the duration of the test then replace it after.

No, Max 72M in length, 3A Load for 1.0mm² with a 6A B Type Mcb.

I don't think there is a set point of entry. Normally go for the bottom area, no knock outs are visible.

PVC Trunking if surface mount, less than £10 a length.

Could be a failed Input Thermostat, they do not last for ever. If it is the thermal cut out, it will depend on the make and year as to where the reset is located.

How have you connected your light ????? Most PIR Lights have connections that you do not connect to, they are for internal links between PIR and Light. Sounds like a Live to Neutral fault.

At 15M in length I would class this as fixed hard wiring to a domestic dwelling which should incorporate a bare cpc for protection, regarding damage to cable.