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With regard to my last post, I may have confused you. The Neutral will be required with the new thermostat, so will need connecting. You may find it is already connected at the boiler or wiring centre end however.

RTS 1 does need a neutral. Live + Neutral + Switch live return on 3. What you need to do is connect the other end of the blue at the wiring centre or boiler. It should not be connected for safety reasons but may be.

Your first post said 1 Black, 2 Red and 2 Blue ???? If you only had the Red and Black connected on the old stat, then, Live Red on C. Black to 2. Earth to earth terminal, if no terminal sleeve and fold back on iteself.

As the system is fused at 3A and 1.0mm rated at 11A, no need for 2.5mm rated at 27A.

C = LIve. 2 = Heating ON (return to trigger system or boiler. What heating system do you have and what colour conductors are in what cable, or is it conduit and singles.

Better to put a 25mm Conduit in the floor and earthed. At least you can then pull the cable out should it get damaged.

Just a Live and Switched Live Return needed with this stat, as it is powered with batteries. See http://www.sunvic.co.uk/tlx7501rt.html

Your colours seem a bit strange Black, Red, Blue. Where do these connections come from and what is the heating system. How many cables is it and what colours are in each cable.

1.0mm² 6242Y or 6243Y is fine and fused at 3 Amps. Do you have a Y-Plan or S-Plan, as the Y-Plan requires 1 extra conductor. 5 + E for Y-Plan and 4 + Earth for S-Plan.

"What is true" That DNO's have no duty to provide an earth connection. They may be duty-bound to maintain it, however in my area on one large estate which is around 45 years old most dwellings have a ZE between 1.5 -3.0 ohms and if contacted they advise the installation be treated as a TT...

Thanks 8)

RF, I am not saying it cannot be done, all I am saying 1.0mm is easier and I like anything easy these days :D :D :D :D :D :D BTW how do you get the high 2 after mm

Most certainly depends on how the plumber plumbs the system. S-Plan = 2 X 2 Port Zone Valves. Y-Plan = 1 X 3 Port Zone Valve.

Indeed I have worked on 240mm and 400mm. Used to work for N.G Bailey, Balfour Kilpatrick, Mathew Hall, in fact most large Electrical Contracting companies. I think I was termed a Journeyman Electrician, did 15 years travelling. Got fed up with 7 days a week away from home, decided to sub to...

Plugwash, this is true.

This could be a 3 or 2 Port valve problem, with a micro switch stuck or broken, unless it's a combi. Do you know what system you have, Combi, Y-Plan, S-Plan, C-Plan ?????

It does control the temperature of the water in the rads by opening and closing the 3 or 2 Port Valve. The boiler stat controls the temperature of the water in the main flow and return.

The supply authority are not obliged to provide an earth, but generally will if they have one available. Treat installation as TT

RF, that was my point, I have asked many Electricians who work for the council why they use 1.5mm and they don't know !!!!! It seems to be handed down over the years. My problem with it, is it's size, it's hard work when used, connecting wall lights, ceiling pendants, J201 Joint Boxes, Chox...

It does not sound ideal, however there are many many homes that have two showers and have never had any problems with the main fuse blowing. Diversity plays a big part in as much as very few times will both showers be running for the same amount of time. Then you have the 100A Fuse which...