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How is a ground source heating sys "controlled"? System is mixed, low temp underfloor piping on ground floor with a 8 way manifold and convector radiators upstairs with inline wax valves. A multizone heatmiser system will control it all via about 16 individual room stats. Now conventional...

I swear all the f*****g time. Apart from when with f*****g customers. But really, like you say, if the man who bought this domain and maintains the site chooses to prevent people from using certain words, thats really down to him, I couldn't care less. nobody tells me what I can and can't...

Fans a ducted inline. I could ceiling mount a fan, but it's noisy.

Tell me about it. I've got a couple of large boxes full of assorted old MCB's of all shapes and sizes. Have been known to come in handy, but given the drive towards RCD protection on everything now, requiring new units rather than an appropriately sized mcb, I'm thinking I might as well bin...

Given the thread was resurrected and prominent, I thought my post was an important safety clarification for the unsure and unwitting and I'm surprised no-one's made the point before. I'm sorry that it doesn't sparkle with you.

What the title says... anyone know of a humidity sensor device to control an extractor fan thats nice and discreet? Only ones I can see are a bit naff, really, especially for a "particular" customer with an ooh-la-la designer bathroom.

RCD's DO NOT provide overload protection. Whether or not this circuit you speak of will operate the device under excess load, it's not recognised or listed in 7671 as an overload device, and an RCD should be used in conjunction with suitably rated fuses or mcbs. Don't mean to shoot you...

Yeah I've returned a few wylex for failing trip times out-the-box. Same manufacturer as crabtree. Quite concerning.

EDF actually require the client to run a duct from the street (boundary) to the meter position, and charge a couple of grand to push the cable in. The duct required for a domestic house can be anything from 32mm poly to 4" cast iron, seems to depend on how the engineer feels on the day he...

To be fair, on the domestic front RCBO's don't add all that to the cost of a rewire, most people are happy to pay the extra when the benefits are explained to them. They do bump the price of a CU swap, I tend to offer both options and push people in the direction of RCBO's. Does this company...

If you really want to go to the effort, just cannibalise a new CU, fit the DIN rail straight to the back of the enclosure, and get a couple of DIN rail terminal bars for the N/E busbars, then trim a new piece of perspex to fit. Doesn't seem worth the effort IMO when you can fit an entire CU...

Just done a job in westminster. Con charge & parking £35-40 a day. Yup thats £200 a week tax, about £700 on the cost of a rewire when alls done, just to be "allowed" to go and work in someones flat. and to think people think they are being ripped off with stuff like VAT. But nay worry...

Is it an RCD or MCB tripping? A timers unlikely to have a fault. I'd test the element resistance first, You're look for about 17ohms L-N and something very high LN-E

I've got a blu ray/HDDVD player in mine, twin DVI video card with a DVI-HDMI to my plasma. Mainly as a stop gap untill the premuim hifi manufacturers I'm intrested in get a blu ray transport on the market, and I'm pleasantly surprised at the virtual flawless playback. Okay it does go bananas...

Some PIR occupancy switches have on/off/auto selectors. It may help if the OP posts a link to what he's contemplating fitting... It's not worth fitting cheap OD's, they'll be a pain, and evan better ones aren't ideal, usefull for hallways etc but not so good in living rooms. My solution to...

Yes. What are we talking about?

I've fitted C types to garages with half a dozen fluorescent lights before now. Probably not necessary but elegant in design. Also needed a D32 for a heat pump recently :shock: You know how hard it is to get a D? Rexel only wanted to sell me a box of ten :roll:

Yeah C types allow a larger short current surge that in my experience is more than a dimmer can handle, you could try fitting electronic/intelligent dimmers that are surge-resistant.

The dishwasher, and all appliances, should have an accessible point of isolation. If the socket is behind the DW, then there should be a spur switch for it. this is very important, if the DW or any other app develops an earth fault (and they can) you're gonna wanna switch everything off to...