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Which makes them pointless for PIR applications when full brightness is normally desirable from the off. And as for because I want to be able to see? seriously if that thing puts out more than a quarter of the light a 500w halogen gives it'd be a miracle. It's bullsheet claims like this...

You've brought up something that is lacking on the market- a powerfull, long life quick starting form of light for such applications simply doesn't exist. And it's a PITA.

I understand that 14 months is a bit long, but in this time it has been back to the distributer once- for supposed software work- which changed little, and the flat battery is new and something that IMO makes it completely unsuitable for use- A van that won't go may cost me hundreds in lost work...

I've seen this discussed on here before, some people seem quite knowledgeable on it. About 14 months ago I bought an infill G4, which is a double din touchscreen computer for in-car use, designed to handle mp3,phone, satnav etc in one package. Long story short- it's a piece of junk. has...

I'd prefer email. It's free & easy and you can say much more and present yourself. Txts are a bit limited in that aspect, and texts and calls rely on the recipients patience and avaliable time- he might be too busy to take your call or hear you out. With letter/email he can look at his leisure.

Did the original CU have the correct busbar? IMO being a recent wylex it offers the easy upgrade path of swapping the non RCD MCB's for RCBO's, provided they fit in the enclosure, instead of buying/fitting a entire new unit. Unless of course you needed the additional spare ways.

"Proper" apprenticeships are like gold dust. I was lucky and probably got one of the last old skool apprenticeships- 4 years with "the old boys" of the trade on the local leccy board, gaining a wide variety of experience and seeing individuals different methods. In time and of course too late...

It'll be the flourescent control gear/ballast etc inside an oversized plug- this keeps the lamp head slim.

If you have a transformer for every 20w light they're probably 60's which may explain it- they're underloaded. To dim 12v lighting the transformer should be close to the lamp rating- eg 50W lamp on 60VA transformer, or 4x 20w on 100VA transformer.

Cables can usually be passed through a void such as the one between ceiling joist- by pushing rods or steel wire between holes and pulling the cables through. This is a skill honed over years and essential to domestic works; I've passed wires through many ceilings and never yet had to remove or...

No offence, but do you understand what I mean by fishing cables down joist runs? Do you have much experience in domestic retrofit works?

What rating is/are the transformer(s)? Is it half decent brand or cheapy?

Roof boards don't need to be removed. Cables can usaually be fished down joist runs, going across the joist run means a little hole each side of the joist, fishing the cable between them and clipping it to the beam. Or, use coving/ coving trunking.

Where does £3000 come from? couple of rolls of lighting cable @ ~ £20/roll dozen or so cheap switches, plus boxes etc £30 or so. bag of plaster ~£10. Times free if you've not much work on, so about £80

took the words out my mouth. the veto's are pricey circa £100 but are probably the best toolboxs out there. Slots for everything so you can glance at it and see your tools are all present, and pretty tough- I've had mine for about 3 years which is a record. Another cheaper option is an...

There's scope for using RCBOS on non-cpc lighting circuits, but I believe the niceic guidance phrases it "if the customer cannot be convinced of the need to rewire". IE a very last resort, now like RF says you're the installer and client, how's it gonna look that you couldn't convince yourself...

I'd be carefull about giving EDF any jip, they can always "make the installation safe" buy pulling your mainfuse and asking you to have your installation certified before reinstating power. And besides, 3PM onwards is the ideal time (for you!) to have your heating on load/ cook the dinner/run...

The one he posted is a centrifugal so should be OK. Axial fans ain't worth squit when flexiduct or bends come into play, still I keep finding them with yards of duct.

The factory flex links can be bent into little "U"'s as they enter the RCD's and tucked behind the circuit breakers. I like to loop the phase conducters behind the circuit breaker DIN rail too, so they pop out from behind their respective MCB and loop in.

It's possible, but done properly means using a relay. shower triggers relay which switches fan, which draws it's current from lighting or ring. Generally less hassle to use one in parallel with the light, or you can get humidistat or PIR operated extractors.