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1. Looks good to me. Except that: 1.1 You have not made provision for heat loss through internal walls. There will be some if abutting rooms are expected to be cooler than the room you are measuring. 1.2 There is no allowance for doors. 2. Your "allowances / assumptions" otherwise are all on...

From a dim memory of a tap of this type I once changed: 1. The male threaded brass shank is part of the tap body. Turn it and the tap will turn as well. 2. The piece nearest the sink (just below the plastic reinforcing triangle) through which the two screws went is actually a form of nut, and...

Suggests you have some obstruction in the cold, reducing the flow rate. The flow rate should be measured at a mains outlet which has no restrictions between the incoming main and that outlet. Examples of restriction are isolation valves other than full bore valves, stop cosks not fully open...

What is the source of hot water, combi boiler or stored hot water?

1. You need to be clear as to what you want: 1.1 A sealed central heating system, with no Feed and Expansion (F&E) tank in loft and an expansion vessel geally inside or near the boiler with pressure relief valve, pressure relief pipe terminating outside and means of re-pressurising. AND / OR...

1. If you know make and model of taps, obtain new cartridges. If not, you will have to remove cartridges (there are no washers), find matches, probably order, replace existing cartirdges, await arrival, then fit. 2. Turn the water to hot and cold off. If you are lucky there will be isolation...

As Madrab, plus: 1. If your downstairs shower WC are tank fed rather than mains fed, you may be disappointed with the outside tap's flow rate. 2. An outside tap requires the following to be fitted within the thermal envelope of the property: 2.1 An isolation valve. 2.2 A double check valve. 2.3...

1. The Feed and Expansion (F&E) tank should have a float valve to turn the water off once the correct level has been reached. 2. In addition, the F&E should have an overflow running to outside to run any excess water off in the event of float valve failure. Wouldn't hurt to test the overflow...

Please, only attempt it if you are absolutely sure of your ability to work safely with electrics. Mains voltage can kill you.

1. I believe resetting a tripped overheat thermostat does not require G3 registration. 2. However, the OP should note that an annual service should be carried out on any unvented hot water cylinder. This service must be done by a G3 registered person.

Firstly, some afterthoughts which I should have put first! A. Make sure there is power going to the heating element(s). I.e. the switches are on and the circuit breakers / fuses in the consumer unit are passing current. B. If you have cheap rate electricity, make sure it is still connected...

There are two types of Schrader inserts, long and short. Perhaps he didn't have the right ones with him.

1. The ferrule that has come off is crimped onto the flexible hose. This is not a DIY repair. 2. You should replace the flexible hose between the wall connector and the handset. It will unscrew from the handset and the wall connector. Replace with a HansGrohe one, or at least with a big bore...

I suspect the issue is no such much the hole as sealing the plywood top with its polythene covering.

you're quite right, above, not below.

1. Looks OK to me except that: 1.1 The vent inlet would need to be an appropriate distance below the overflow level. 1.2 You would need some way to let air into / out of the tank to cope with changing air pressure as the tank empties / fills.

1. Agree with Madrab. 450 mm from top of curve to water level. This height will absorb the expansion of water for average sized systems (4% of system water volume) without disturbing the contents of the F&E tank. 2. If it goes in horizontally: 2.1 Water will expand into the tank, the water in...

1. Presumably your picture of the taps is not of your own taps as they already have a shower diverter valve fitted. However, assuming your's are similar check to make sure the rubber O rings that between the chrome cup washer at the base of the taps and the upper surface of the bath are in good...

1. Might work if you are in a hard water area and also de-scale, but probably not. Best to replace the cartridges. 2. Cartridges are often specific to make and model of tap.

1. Its a phosphate "water softener" / scale inhibitor. 2. Have a look at Screwfix item 68371