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1. Pressure is what drives the water through the pipes. One bar is roughly equal to the pressure at the bottom of a column of water 10 metres high. If the pressure is inadequate, then the amount of water flowing will be insufficient. 2. Flow is usually measure in litres per minute (lpm). It...

Assuming you mean an unvented hot water system: 1. Minimum cold water mains pressure of 2.0 bar. Dynamic = pressure at 1 mains outlet with another mains outlet running. 2. Minimum 20 litres per minute flow rate. Measured "open pipe", i.e. with no restrictions in place. 3. The installer MUST...

1. There is likely to be a stop cock between the water suppliers pipes and the run to your property, usually situated just inside your boundary. Particularly likely if you have a water meter. 2. It is generally possible to freeze the cold mains pipe. However, you need to let the plumber know...

1. The filling loop may be elsewhere, e.g. under the kitchen sink? 2. Some Vaillants have a built in filling loop. Has two grey plastic handles, just underneath the boiler.

1. Check the pressure of your incoming mains cold. This requires a pressure gauge like Screwfix item 82412. Attach to a washing machine outlet or garden hose outlet. 2. If the pressure is less than the maximum for the shower (most will take 3 bar): 2.1 Take the head off the hose and run the...

1. So far as I know you can't get aluminium self tappers. The metal is too soft to cut a thread. 2. If you mean 3.5 mm aluminium machine screws, search for Aluminium M3.5. Doubt they'd be strong enough. 3. Short of Titanium, which is very expensive, most metals will react with aluminium.

1. Plumber's Mait is not the right sealant for what you are trying to do. 2. Personally, I'd use Loctite 55. Screw it up tight, then you can back it off up to 1/3 turn and it should still seal. Read and follow the instructions on the packaging. In particular, you are advised to roughen up the...

I'd drain the pipe with the offending Tee in it. Then: 1. Remove all traces of Milliput, and solder a cap over the microbore pipe stub. OR 2. Cut through the Tee just above and just below the microbore outlet, making sure the cut was straight. Sweat off the remaining parts of the Tee and...

1. Cold tap - Handle should just pull off. If it's on tight, try pouring very hot water over it to expand the handle, then carefully pull. 2. Hot tap. Needs more force. Put spanner on hexagon nut with spanner handle upwards. Push top of spanner handle back towards wall. If very tight (and...

Looks to be leaking from the tap's gland nut (small hexagonal nut below handle). Look for "sealing gland nut" on the internet for ways of stopping it.

Use a manual air valve, e.g. Screwfix item 52451

Another possibility is that there is a Thermostatic Mixing Valve (TMV) fitted to the hot feed to the shower. A TMV mixes cold water with hot to ensure the temperature can't go above a certain point, usually 38 degrees. These have a habit of failing. Likely to be fitted to properties built in...

1. The (three?) grub screw near the tiles hold the body of the shower to a backplate screwed to the wall. 2. The nut on top just blanks off the water outlet to a (normally) rigid riser rail. 3. I'm not sure about the following, but likely to be: 3.1 Big nut holds the works to the large round...

1. Presumably you have a hot water cylinder. Does it not have an immersion heater? 2. Personally prefer soldered copper as it is more resistant to rodent attack. However, if underfloor and risk of rodents low, I'd prefer plastic push-fit to compression fittings. 3. Presumably you will come up...

1. Never heard of Sauber as a manufacturer and as far as I can see they have no web site of their own. 2. Reginox are a UK firm (though I don't know where their products are made. Have used their sinks, which are OK.

1. The silicone rubber washer at the base of the tap compresses when installed to provide a seal. This tightening may be what is causing the tap to become stiff. 2. Are you sure the seating depth of the insert you have is correct? 3. You could try installing it then backing off by 1/2 turn...

It is permissible to wire to an UNSWITCHED socket, although as Madrab points out, a single fused spur for all boiler connected electrical items is by far the best option. The reason for an unswitched socket is that the plug must be removed to disconnect the boiler, and this disconnects both...

Just re-pressurise the system in the normal way, bleeding the new radiator in the process. How to re-pressurise will be in the boiler instructions, probably available on-line if you haven't got a copy.

That end cap (very thin disc at outside end of valve) unscrews. Or rather, it is meant to. In my experience they inevitably snap as the central screw is tiny. I drill and countersink them then use a screw of the same size to secure the end cap back to the valve.

1. Sink taps are almost invariably 1/2" BSP (generally equivalent to G1/2). 2. The size bears a strange relationship to the physical measurement. So little point in taking it apart.