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1. There is little point using a metric ruler on plumbing fittings. They are nearly all still Imperial, and the nominal sizes bear an unusual relationship to the physical size. 2. Nearly all toilet inlet valve shanks are 1/2" British Standard Pipe (BSP) thread although a few are 3/8" BSP. If...

If that's on a bath, Screwfix Item No. 20140. If its on a basin, Screwfix Item 32730

1. Assuming the pipes are copper, there is no normal fitting to block them internally. Same is true for plastic pipes. 2. The smallest caps are solder feed. 3. My approach with readily available fittings would be: 3.1 Cut the pipe level with the concrete. Multi-tool or similar 3.2 Drill out...

1. The OP has a thermal store, not a standard hot water cylinder. 2. The main volume of the cylinder holds water at around 80 degrees. 3. When hot water is drawn, cold mains water is passed through a coil inside the cylinder (or an external heat exchanger) and picks up heat. 4. The outgoing...

Where to start? 1. One or both immersion heater thermostats (ordinary or overheat ones) off? 2. Blender valve on output from cylinder faulty? 3. PCB faulty? 4. Neutral fault on immersion connection(s)?

Try pulling the fitting up while tightening (NOT loosening) the nut. Might be enough to get the piece underneath to stop rotating. If you loosen the top part, the bottom may come off and drop into the void.

1. Whoever did that is not a plumber. You never use PTFE tape round the threads of compression fittings. 2. Because heating pipes expand and contract it is usually accepted that any fittings are more susceptible to coming loose except for soldered fittings. 3. If he doesn't do press fit he...

If the cylinder is already up to the desired temperatue, the boiler won't fire.

1. Air can take quite a while to come out of the system. 2. Turn boiler off and allow system to cool. 3. Manually open both motorised valves (S plan) or set motorised valve to mid-position (Y plan). 4. Bleed all radiators. I do downstairs first then upstairs on the basis that air rises...

1. If the conservatory is open to the rest of the house, sounds as if it contravenes Part L of the building regulations. 2. You need to do a proper heat loss calculation for the ground floor and conservatory. Whether or not 15mm pipe will support the requirement can then be determined.

1. The maximum flow rate will be determined by the narrowest pipe. So there is no point going up to 22mm after a length of 15mm. 2. If the run to the nearest 3 radiators is a 22mm "spine" with short spurs to each radiator in 15mm, then 15 mm runs to the conservatory radiators may be OK...

1. If the pipes are under the insulation touching the concrete base, the freezing risk remains. 2. Insulation will only keep heat in / cold out for a certain amount of time. Continuous exposure to freezing temperatures will result in frozen pipes eventually.

In theory you are supposed to insulate all pipes. Given that most of any heat lost from heating pipes will end up heating the space above, albeit at a somewhat reduced efficiency, I wouldn't bother. However, be aware that the pipes could freeze if that concrete is uninsulated.

1. A lot of (mostly, but not exclusively) cheap taps have certain parts, e.g. handles, made of "pot metal". Pot metals is a bit of a generic term for generally zinc based alloys which can be pressure die cast to an excellent finish which requires much less polishing before chroming. 2. I have...

1. In my opinion it is highly unlikely you will find a tap which will work with low pressure (your hot water) and provide a pull out function. 2. You hot water pressure will be determined by the distance from the base of the cold water storage cistern (loft) to the outlet. 1 bar of pressure...

1. MC3+ shouldn't be left in for more than 28 days. May not (I don't know) cause any problems, but likely to cease having any effect. 2. Is the high temperature problem related to heating, hot water, or both? 2.1 If hot water only, it could be the hot water side of the secondary (plate) heat...

1. If you have to push the handle repeatedly to get it to flush, likely to be the syphon diaphragm. 2. Otherwise, could be too low a water level requiring adjustment of the inlet valve.

Because if it sticks in the open position, it cannot stop heat from the heat source (presumably boiler) continuing to heat the water in the cylinder.

That valve is part of the safety system for the unvented cylinder. It should only be changed by someone with a current G3 accreditation.

You need an earthing clamp like Screwfix item 57444. Toolstation sell similar singly.