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1. You won't get an external bending spring over that soldered stop end, and obviously you can't use an internal spring. 2. A cross thread say's, you should have the pipe terminated as close to the main gas carcase for the property as possible. 3. Even if it were bent using benders, you should...

1. The valve on the right of your radiator is what is known as a wheel head valve. You should be able to turn it open and closed without removing the while plastic cap. 2. The valve on the left is a lock-shield valve: 2.1 You would have to remove the white plastic cap to turn the spindle with a...

Its not the old plumbers who think that, it is some boiler manufacturers. Can void their warranties.

The best ones to go for are the ion exchange type. These use resin beads to "pull" the hardness from the water. Over time the beads become unable to absorb any more hardness, and are washed with a brine solution to restore that ability. Worth noting that the salt does not do the softening, it...

1. It the valve with the black handle highlighted with a red arrow in cdbe's response. 2. They are often very stiff to turn. If this is the case you can always turn the water off at the main stop-cock. If doing so, switch the boiler off as well.

1. Sill or Cill - either spelling. 2. The important gap is at the bottom, try for a minimum of 150mm off the floor, and avoid going below 100mm. 3. Gap below sill is less important, but go for more rather than less. 4. Spacing the radiator off the wall to clear the sill would be a waste of...

1. The silver coloured braided hose is your filling loop. 2. It appears to have only one valve, the black handled one on the left. This is currently closed. 3. To re-pressure: 3.1 Turn black plastic handle on filling loop valve 1/4 turn. When handle is parallel with pipe, valve is open. 3.2...

Just be careful. It looks as if your existing one has an isolation valve at the non-WC end. You will have to turn the water off before removing it or you will get very wet. I'd replace with a stand alone isolation valve so that you can replace the flexi without turning the water off...

1. Half inch in plumbing doesn't mean half inch. It refers to 1/2" British Standard Pipe (BSP) size, and the outside diameter of a 1/2" BSP male thread is a fraction under 21 mm. 2. Most WC inlet valves have threaded shanks of 1/2" BSP. A small number have 3/8" BSP, but yours looks like 1/2"...

1. Provided the existing radiator is not short of hot water flow, no reason why not. 2. Therefore, if the radiator is not abnormally large (unusual for a bathroom) and is either: 2.1 Directly connected to the 22mm "spine" of your central heating system. OR 2.2 Is only connected to 1 or 2...

I would read this as: Protects the boiler's internal parts but no guarantee on anything outside the boiler.

Likely to be the boiler firing up to pre-heat water or as an anti-freeze measure. What boiler (make and model)?

1. Electric showers have a manufacturer provided maximum operating pressure. This is often 5 bar. If your water pressure is higher than this I would consider installing a pressure reducing valve on the incoming main. 2. Otherwise, use a water hammer arrestor such as Screwfix 905FA as close...

1. Generally the valves do not screw into the female threaded radiator inlets. A male threaded "tail" is screwed into the radiator, sealed with PTFE or some other way (plenty of internet advice). 2. The valves are then connected to the tails, with either compression fittings or union fittings...

1. Measure the centre to centre distance between radiator and valve, then see if two (each end) 45 degree street elbows would bridge the gap. Have a look at BES item 7991. You will need to be able to solder or get someone else to do it. 2. I trust you have kept the radiator tails which from...

They usually tilt up at the front when fully opened, then you can lift the drawer base off.

1. Many plumbing fittings (but not pipes!) are still imperial, based round the nominal internal bore of the pipes they were designed to suit. 2. Thus you frequently get 1/2" British Standard Pipe (BSP), 3/4" BSP. You can also get, as you have, a continental manufacturer using 3/8" BSP. 3. The...

1. Make sure there is no water in that vertical pipe. 2. Unscrew the lower white plastic nut, leaving it on the pipe or putting it back before 5. below. . 3. Inside, there should be the following: 3.1 A rubber washer with a conical shape to it. 3.2 An ordinary fibre washer. 4. Remove rubber and...

1. Whether or not you can do what you want depends on the type of system you have. If its gravity hot water and pumped central heating you may need to change to a C plan system with a motorised valve. 2. If the timer is built into the boiler, you will probably need to set that programmer /...

Rental flat = landlord problem. He/she has an obligation to provide hot and cold water services and heating (as well as various other services). I'm a landlord (well, my wife is, I just do the work), and my reaction would be to change the whole bar shower. New Bristan is about £110, and can...