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1. The olive has been crushed into the pipe. In my opinion it will never seal properly again. 2. You need to: 2.1 Drain down the system. 2.2 Clean the paint off the pipe. 2.2 Cut the pipe below the level of the damage. Cut it square, preferably with a pipe slice, and deburr inside and out...

1. Don't try and reuse the old pipes into the tap. Unlikely they are the same thread. 2. The key thing is to get the flexis to fit without their being twisted or crushed. 3. If you can I'd measure the end of the flexis which screw into the tap, and get shorter flexis with the same thread...

1. Wouldn't have thought trap depth was an issue. The pumps are pretty powerful. 2. If the flexible waste hose from the washing machine is not brought up to just below the level of the work top to fall again into the trap, water may be caught in the hose as it never reaches the trap, and falls...

Neither. New tap, new tap connector, new tap connector washer = no need for paste. You couldn't use PTFE anyway.

1. If it is not copper it will be steel (attracts magnet) or lead. 2. In either case it can be moved. As Madrab states you will need to get a Gas Safe registered engineer to move it. He / she will do any necessary gas volume calculations to allow for the new pipe and / or route. 3. If it's...

1. The version with the white wire is the 28mm version. I think the new one you have is a 22mm type. If so you will need some pipework modifications. 2. Is the white wire on the old one joined to any other wire in the wiring centre, or is it just isolated and unconnected? If the latter you...

1. It shouldn't cause an airlock, as it's no different from turning off all the upstairs radiators. Even if it did, you could just bleed the downstairs radiators. 2. Don't join them or you will "short circuit" the heating. Hot water will just go straight through the join and bypass the...

1. You are not allowed to make one, never mind two, gas outlets unless you are Gas Safe Registered. It is illegal to do so. 2. You will have to let a gas qualified engineer establish both outlets either: 2.1 After the cooker and hob are installed but before they are connected, even though...

Provided the stop cock below the drain off valve is working, you could easily replace it yourself: 1. Buy a new compression fitting drain off valve. Assuming the pipe is 15 mm diameter, BES Item 7802 is what you want. 2. Shut of the stop cock by screwing the handle clockwise until it won't go...

Looks like (part of) the combination valve for an unvented hot water cylinder. If so, can only be worked on by someone with a G3 qualification with current accreditation to an approved G3 scheme.

Normally with that type of fixing the threaded rod, which is hollow to allow for the "pop up waste" operating rod, has a hexagon on the inside. You put a long Allen key of the right size down the operating rod hole (after removing the rod!) and tighten by turning clockwise looking down.

1. With the retaining screw undone, the handles will just pull off. However, time and limescale may have jammed them on. Try pouring very hot water over them and levering off with a broad bladed screwdriver, but watch the chrome-work. 2. The right hand tap (with the bigger gap) has probably had...

1. System can be drained via a radiator valve. More fiddly than if drain off fitted but plumbing 101. 2. Who knows. 3. The system should have inhibitor in it. If you are going to do a chemical flush it would be sensible to do that first. As mentioned above it can be done without a drain off...

Have you pushed the flush pipe too far into the pan so that water cannot flow in fast enough?

1. Can't tell for sure from your photos but looks to me as if a fitting has been inserted into the end of the pipe, presumably soldered. 2. I've quite often found these fittings, which are designed for end feed soldering, often offer a slack fit for a compression fitting. 3. You might try...

1. His excuses sound like rubbish. Any system can be drained and refilled - how did the water get into it in the first place? 2. Check the installation manual for your boiler, which he should have left with you after completing and signing the checklist at the back. If Worcester insist on a...

1. There is no difference in heat output of aluminium versus steel radiators of the same designated heat output. The aluminium one is likely to feel warmer more quickly, but will then go cold more quickly. 2. It is likely that the water going into the radiators with the heat pump is cooler...

1. The head of the insert is larger to accommodate the extra O ring. 2. The other O ring can prevent the olive of the compression fitting from sealing properly.

As Madrab says, you shouldn't use Superseal inserts with compression fittings. Use the plain inserts (Screwfix item 64318) instead.

1. 2 bar dynamic pressure is at the lower limit for an unvented cylinder. Worth checking you do get this pressure, and at different times of the day. 2. You need a flow of at least 20 litres per minute (cold main, "open pipe" flow). 3. You would almost certainly need some pipework changes...