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If adjusting P2 DOES NOT affect the gas rate then check the voltage on the modureg. This should vary between 4 and 20VDC depending on temperature. If readings do not vary then you have a faulty PCB, if readings are ok then you have a faulty modureg/gas valve i.e. a CORGI job.

*IF* the pressure is excessive i.e. more than oilman suggests, then did you check for blockage in the pipe leading to the EV?

oops, missed that :-)

I don't work on oil but you probably have a dry header tank (assuming you don't have a primatic cylinder) or blocked cold feed. Check the header tank is full of water, if so then empty a bucket-full of water out of the system and check the header tank starts to replenish the lost water. If not...

This is a common problem. If there's a yellow jumper on the PCB it needs to be removed. This slows the fan down, resulting in lower burner pressure and hence smoother ignition.

If it's a new Vaillant then the filling loop may be part of the boiler. Check your manual for the location. For old Vaillants you'll have a filling loop as mentioned above. There are several methods people use for filling loops, some not up to regs which can cause water contamination, you'll...

First check the manual for the boiler. Many boilers are ok but some need a 75mm air gap or 25mm non-combustible material. The best bet is to check with the installer.

DaveJ, in a previous post leak said My first thoughts were the coil until I read this. If the water level is not rising when cold then it is very unlikely that the coil has failed, although not impossible. Also, it hasn't been mentioned whether the F&E tank is higher than the cold storage...

I'd have to disagree - worry a lot about the regs, that's why they're there. It sounds like the boiler's going to be on a combustible wall, the flue will also pass through this wall, the wall will also have to provide adequate support, long pipe runs may be needed so pipe sizing is essential...

BG usually charge about £500 for an 11 rad powerflush unless you're inside the M25. As you were quoted £750 either BG are too busy and don't want the work; your system needs an upgrade e.g. close-coupling; your system is in such a mess it's likely rads will leak; you're inside the M25; the...

It sounds like you have a pretty old system so I would suggest cleaning the radiators individually. Adding something like Sentinel x400 to the system for a couple of weeks prior to this may help to loosen the sludge. If your rads are very old or are starting to look a bit ropey, then any...

I thought I'd already given this reply a while back, but I notice it isn't showing so here it is again. Sounds to me like you have sludge in the system causing a restriction on the CH side, so the water takes the easiest route, which is up the expansion pipe. If possible try turning the pump...

Haha, no problem, 'tis the season of goodwill after all :D P.S. thank your wife for the hug... very welcome :)

The electrical part (head) of the motorised valve. Sounds like this or the synchron motor within the head is faulty. You could take a chance and try replacing the motor as this is the cheapest option, and it's only two wires.

Ferroli 77F Thermistor readings: 890 ohms @ 10 C, 1.25 kohms @ 80 C. Try swapping the wires of the heating and h/w thermistors. They are identical, so if it then modulates you know it's the thermistor. If these tests show the HW thermistor to be ok then try adjusting potentiometer P2 on the PCB...

Try moving the valve over manually either by pushing the lever over to heating and holding it there, or by removing the head and operating the spindle manually (preferable). Turn the HW stat up and check the heat goes to the rads. This will eliminate three things: sludge in the system, a faulty...

Maybe just expansion or, if it's a combi, possibly (but very rarely) a small lump of solder in the pump. Other people may be able to help if you give more info on boiler and system.

Do you have an unvented cylinder? I think the Telford Tornado cylinders use an arrangement similar to the one you describe, not sure though as I don't have unvented certification. Off hand I can't remember why there is a second valve as I've only seen one such system. BTW, if it is unvented...

At a guess I would say either the motorised valve isn't powering fully over to CH, the seating inside the motorised valve has become dislodged and is blocking port A of the valve (happens with honeywells usually), or the pump is running slow.

There should be a HW satisfied/off connection at the cylinder stat and/or the timer (sometimes only the cylinder stat connection is used). This provides power to the CH when the HW is satisfied via the grey wire of the mid pos valve. Make sure both the cylinder stat's satisfied connection and...