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Buy your rad first then no surprises .

Did you look in the loft ?. they might have stuck it there when they took out the header tank .

He hasn't got cold water mains at the boiler.

There's a red pressure vessel beside your hot water cylinder .Follow that pipe and see if if it joins mains /filler loop in loft .

Nope put a cover on it.

Have you tried adjusting the knurled screw.

Does the 'fill valve' float ,not have to drop down to let the water enter .Seems like its stuck up.

No such thing as a straight swap ,when your changing radiator sizes. Depths are different for pipe tails ,unless you don't mind crooked pipes .Brackets are usually different ,tall rads should be flushed through as well.

Someone on a 'cop' programme last week got off with exposing himself to woman as it was fake .

As above or a bread knife .

A lot of vertical rads now come with two TRV,s one with a cap .Screwing the cap down slightly does slow the flow through it .

Thanks for the better picture . The temp/PRV set up is ok .

As already mentioned your pressure relief/temp valve from your cylinder is not connected correctly,(photo one) it should go to a tundish then be piped outside to a drain .Yours looks like it goes back into your heating system.

If you google Aquaficient 6 lots come up .

Is a heat pump worth looking into an alternative? If your house is not 100 percent insulated and the radiators sized to the room then no .

Ask him if it passes inspection . My BI would not pass my extension until a similar 'mishap' had been corrected . I had to cut the roof back past the firing and reinstate with the correct fall.

Ask your building inspector .

If you've got replacements give it a tap with a hammer to break limescale seal .

What happens when you turn it off ?.

Are you sure its rain water ?. The hot air being pushed out by the fan could condensate inside the cold duct and flow back into the fan .