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Not only that he turned the bypass valve fully on, luckily I was watching him and he didn't put where it was before; pls see my post #26 showing the photo of the bypass valve which is nearly shut.

There was a purpose for this post: I booked a gas safe engineer yesterday morning; he said I need new boiler, new pump and power flush; total £3800 and spent time trying to convince me. I asked him to test the pump but was ignored.

There is no other parts which can be faulty. The boiler fires only for 30 sec then stops for 30mins or so, the feed pipe from the boiler get very hot and return is cold, then the pump get very hot for no good reason. What else good it be, boiler?

Yes I did few turns clockwise until stopped then anti clockwise until stopped.

I turned both valves clock wise and anti clock wise with no issue, does this confirm valves are in working order?

TBH I don't have the confidence to replace the pump, haven't tried if valves are working/closing or not, will hire someone, just called a local plumber he quoted £350 labour only; laughable. I will make more calls tomorrow.

:LOL:

I haven't done anything since; few questions: 1. With hot water or central heating selected, would the pump turn if boiler not firing? IE: does the pump turn only when boiler is firing? 2. Can I test the operation of the pump without taking it apart? ie: by taking the middle silver screw and see...

The tank was emptied from same rad drain point as before, the remaining water removed and cleaned thoroughly; there were metal bits at the bottom. Is Sentinel x100 good enough?

The tank was full, by the dry line. The flow rate of drained water as per photo above.

The tank was full, by the dry line. The flow rate of drained water as per photo above.

Update: I turned off the cold feed to the header F&E tank, drain from ground floor drain valve for good 5 mins, went to the loft, water level in header tank down to third; pls see pic below. Verdict?

magnets sticking to more than one pipe, 15mm and 22m pipes, how to remove crud, manual flush?

Thanks I will do it on Saturday. Two observations, re photos attached: 1. The magnet is sticking to the copper pipes, does it mean anything? 2. There is a service valve open only half way from day one, does it matter?

I can turn off the cold water which feeds the header tank first then drain from a rad drain point for few seconds, then lock the drain point and check if header tank level gone down, am I right? If so then turn the water back on to fill tank.

Where to drain water off from, header tank or of a rad?

Pump is quiet no noise at all when boiler is firing. No gauge on boiler. Header tank in the loft. Just checked it and it's full of water. PS . There were loud grinding noises from the pump one evening last week. Then short grinding noises 3 days ago and been quiet since.

Give the information; my retired plumber said exactly the same. It's been there since moved to the house in 2002. I just ordered the part. Cheers

It's definitely NOT the port valves because boiler fires when timer set to HW or Heat stops after 20 sec and fires again after 20mins, why would boiler re start if it was/were port valves issue/s?!

Both ports valves are making the noises when turned on and off from the timer; suggests they are fine I thought. System is behaving the same when hot water or heating turned on; boiler fires then shuts off after 20 sec. The heating port valve is new Hanwell 1 year old. It would be odd for both...