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You can use them instead of nails and countersunk screws.

What would help to stop developing gaps/shrinkage, would applying wood oil on sides and edges before fitting avoids the issue?

I am going for the 20x220 mm finished and will be using "lost trite countersunk self drilling screws".

The room in question is 2500 x 3000 , is there any harm using wider boards like 270mm or the 220mm is good enough?

Hi I am replacing floorboards in a first floor room: 1. Can I use 20mmx220mm (finished) redwood softwood PAR, which is thicker and wider than what I have now (redwood18mmx119mm T&G)? 2. Are 2 screws fixings per joist sufficient?

One supplier said "18mm plus engineered wood floorings can be installed directly over joists". I think makes sense as 18mm engineered flooring is stronger than 18mm chipboard sub floor. Also:

Hi I want to put engineered wood flooring over joists, is there any issue with the thickness of the boards? Is 14mm thick good enough? Thanks

It's the original charging cable came with the iphone.

Stranded cable are class II according to this vid

I know that but that's single insulation; the grey standard insulated cables aren't class II double isolated. How about the connectors? Wago or bloc connectors aren't class II.

Say you get class ii ceiling light, you have L & N coming down from the ceiling to be connected to the protected wires of the light, what connector do you use to maintain the double insulation? I doubt wago are suitable? Also L & N wires from the ceiling are not double insulated.

Q1. Apart maybe from wet rooms such as bathrooms and the likes; is there any advantage of installing class ii light when E is available in the circuit? Q2. Isn't it safer connecting CPC cable to metal light casing rather than having metal casing class ii light with no E connection?

May be that's because most if not all houses pre 1960's or so never had earth in their lighting circuits. May be that was because ceiling roses with pendants were made of plastic didn't need regulation and were standard widely used. Or even may be because specific requirements and regulations...

Exactly; doing the same beeping over brick wall when there's nothing; there must be an explanation! Basically reliability is 50% at best, If beeps means nothing but seems fine to rely on if doesn't beep when you touch a cable. Sometimes the blame is on magnetic field when there are other...

I purchase Lap pen tester, was inserting the batteries and testing, the pen starts bleeping but there was nothing next to it apart from laptop and iphone both charging. The bleep was caused from the iphone even from 6 inches away from the cable. The pen is supposed to detect AC voltage from...

Just remembered, I installed kitchen hood extractor bought from SF in a rental flat had no earth. The vid below explains classes 0,1,2 and 3, also mentions hoods w/o earth.

It was much easier in the past, most if not all light fittings were ceiling rose and pendants which were all made of plastic, no earth required.

I can't see why will render them class 0. I have seen a couple of class 2 lights, the only difference is that L & N are both in a thick sleeve which assume acts as protection.

I am not disagreeing, I am not an electrician only a DIYer keen to learn; if you can explain why would it be safer? I fitted bathroom light, I think it was IP44 and and was also class 2 double insulated no earth required, I wasn't expecting class 2, found out after arrived.

That's not accurate information. Light with metal fittings which are CLASS II DOUBLE INSULATED NO EARTH REQUIRED can be used. Many such wall/ceiling lights are available in the market, one example below: https://www.thelightingsuperstore.co.uk/products/seattle-3-arm-semi-flush-light