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Just want to make sure of something is possible please? The Immersion Heater/Thermostat wiring is: Live goes through T (thermostat) and this T (thermostat) makes or breaks the circuit, depending if calling for heat or not (when switched on)! Then from the T (thermostat) the circuit is...

muggles - the vent pipe should terminate higher than the "water level in the cistern) 150mm + 40mm per metre minimum. Also you need at least 1 METRE from the f & e cistern water level to the highest part of the system (usually the primery flow to the hot water cylinder). and divide the...

a drop valve (the b & q one for about £13-14) will fit most if not all wc's (especially close coupled). It also comes with 2 outlet's - the most popular 1 1/2" and 2" also. the tube linking the drop valve to the push button (also supplied with it) is easy to connect up to any normal wc...

sounds like a new motorised vale (actuator) is required. it's very odd for both your heating and hot water zone vale (s-plan) to be both stuck at the same time though!!

new stoptap washer or new stoptap inner part required then !!

I think he mucked about for a bit then just decided to change the pipework! I suppose it's too difficult to muck about pushing feathers out of a pipe! I guess it's lucky no feathers got into the hot water cylinder isn't it! That would have been even more expensive!

a Cyltrol valve! are these blue in colour? I have heard of them briefly but never seen one! I suppose they are the same as tapstats but just another properietary brand?

yep as airlock is in h/w close the htg valve (or if 3 port mid leave it on auto (h/w port open) alternatively if it were htg airlocked you'd reverse this!! there shouldn't be water if the hose is attached securely with a jubille clip. still good practice to have a towel or 4 ready!! but...

yep it controls the flow going into the cylinder (or can be on the return) but same principle anyway. So as you say it's silly having a cylinder stat as well as a tap stat! Plus tap stat's are much more expensive (about 75-80 pounds)!! Is there any real advatage of having one?!.....

maybe a PCB fault.

maybe to act like a TMV - an extra precaution, for in places where elderley people, young kids, etc live??

John, you can also use it on fully pumped system too. Although you are right - you can use them on gravtiy flow to the hot water cylinder (they have 28mm connections). The fully pumped ones though have 15mm connections! So i don't know exactly where they would be used as most (if not all)...

also this is why "boiler interlock' is now being enforced - so the boiler doesn't cycle and shuts off when room and cylinder stats are both satisfied.

namsag - why does it not work? i have heard it does get rid of airlocks via the vent pipe / up and over into the appropriate tank ? also about your method you are right, there is no gas work involved so there's nothing wrong with it. but how would boiling up the water get rid of air? is it...

why would leaving all the taps on and then opening the stopcock cure his / her problem? it's not an airlock ? .......

if feathers (or any other things, eg/ loose insulation) get into your cold water tank (from lid not properley on, etc) and down into the cold feed pipe/cold water distribution pipe to bahtoom) - this will obviously cause intermittent flow at the tap(s) - similar to what an airlock would be like...

it may just be a loose spindle - circlip may have come off - or the valve may just be too loose. try tightening it. if you are going to buy a new tap insert - they cost about 2-3 pounds but make sure you take your old one with you to the store - some have different threads and when screwed...

why not just backfill the system with mains pressure cold water, from a low drain off point (either at a rad or at the boiler itself) into the f & e cistern to get rid of the air that way? easier and safer for a diy'er! :)

not unless you want to cut the flush pipe and lower the cistern! which means drilling new holes in the wall and also altering the supply oipework to the float valve tap connector! it will most probably die down after a few weeks - a new flush is always faster at first!!

correct me anyone if i am wrong - but a tapstat is like a trv - has a pressure pin inside and controls the water from the h/w cylinder - it's like a 2nd thermostat/control device (as well as the cylinder stat). It is not linked up to the wiring centre box like a cylinder stat, it just connects...