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I have to say, working in the trade as a sole trader is not cheap. gas safe registration, Part P registration, calibration of test equipment, and that is all before you earn one penny. A friend and i were looking at getting into solar thermal, taking the long term view that this was the way to...

would normally tend to agree, infact had that conversation with them. As it was, and sods law, when we did change the dry pocket thermistor after having exactly the same circumstances as this, it solved the problem. we put it down to a dodgy connection between the two strands that are joined...

Yes I am registered. Yes I have changed a few o these PCB,s. And yes have discussed similar issues with the manufacturer who have recommended changing the thermistor at the same time as it can cause problems. This might have absolutely nothing to do with this fault, but still worth changing if...

as a side issue, when you changed the PCB did you also change the temperature thermistor which is in the dry pocket. Manufacturers recommend that at the same time as the PCB. Do not have the manual to hand so would not be able to tell you what the light sequence means, but the Thrmistor does...

have fitted both, and to be honest the best advice given here so far, is, if you insist that you need two showers to run at the same time then unvented or tanked water is the only real option to guarantee that that will work. the 837 is a little better with water flow rate but i feel it will...

i live is a semi detached house which has a shared driveway with my neighbours. i intend submitting drawings for planning permission for a garage which will sit on my half of the driveway. (about 2.4m wide). and a small reception room behind. my issue is the fact that the ground slopes down...

have you thought about fitting a new baxi back boiler, since you seem to be happy to have an electrical fire in front. This might save you some time and money?

might be with checKing the thermostat thermister (sat in a dry pcket on the boiler pipe on LHS of boiler) potterton recommend changing these as well as the PCB once that fails. since the thermister also fails. i believe from memory that the resistance reading should be 2Mega ohms at room temp...

i dont have a call to do much with immersion heaters these days, but came accross something odd today. custommer complaining of hot water being red hot. i suggested turning the thermostat on the emmersion down ( no other form of indirect heat to tank, just electric). so duly tried that after...

get a registered gas engineer in to look at it. this should be bread and butther stuff to them.

external controls somewhere incorrectly wired. get a registered enginneer in. it will save you a great deal of time and money in the long run. Honest! I am also electrically qualified, and can assure you that most electricians are totally baffled by central heating electrics!

i would agree with the Vailant 831. the 837 quotes a higher hot water flow but you need to put in what you want out! i prefere vaillant to worcester but i suppose you could argue about this all day. Vaillant- stainless steel heat exchanger, so can be used with a water softener. Worcester...

is this a recent problem. in other words has it worked fine before. initially i would ignore the frost stat. look at the heating first. does the wireless room state provide 230 volts to the wiring centre when the room state calls for heat. (check this with a multimeter). If it does not, check...

try disconnecting the flow switch terminals off the flow switch. on some other makes this is a problem, because of the design of the flow switch, and cracking over time causing a short. might be the same here.

sound like an easy job but is not. you need to have someone round to confirm the problem as these valves are not cheap. if it is the valve passing then the system needs draining down to a point where you can work on the boiler. I would not isolate on the boiler at its valves as they will...

if your heating is getting warm when not calling for central heating. it is probably being caused by the diverter valver passing every time you call for direct hot water by running the tap. So yes it could happen even when the programmer shows heating off.

1. Do you have a three port valve or two separate motorised valves? 2. When you select hot water only, is the tank stat confirmed as calling for heat? need a little more information. prabably an external control/valve problem, but more info to clarify?

many thanks for all your feedback. ill have a good look at what has been mentioned. :D

As a means of trying to reduce overheads but at the same time still manage to carry on working, i was wondering if there are any views on medium size vans such as the Ford connect, or similar. Specifically, can you get by and perhaps save on fuel, or is there no point. Anyone any views on which...

i still like to use copper. might be worth pricing up getting someone in to do a copper fit, compared to using plastic fittings and pipework. I know copper prices are now daft but there might still be movement to pay for labour?