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We were shown that photo on a recent H&S course, it's ingenious 8)

I hope your sarcasm detector is in order if you think I did that ;)

After what the householder told me the grommet was probably an extra expense.

Someone wanted a new socket outlet fitted in a bedroom and I was happy to oblige. After I'd smashed my way in to the wall to tap in to the existing ring and forced a back box in eventually I must've lost the earth cable somewhere so I connected a new one from the k/o box to the E terminal on...

Cool, so the ones not directly connected to earth are basic RCD's then? I realise an isolator is not required but as the current meter tails won't reach the new CU when the ELCB is removed it seems an easy way to extend them ;)

Don't feel sorry, I couldn't care less and doubt that I'll remember you in the morning anyway so there's little chance of future tolerance unless you're able to actually add anything of value to a question I ask. Edit: No offence taken by the way, or meant...

JohnnyGirl actually, love. I asked here as I didn't know about ELCB's in the first place, hence my question, thanks to those who've helped in that respect. I don't care what you do or when you move on really, your type of help is of no use to me :shrug:

I've fitted a few isolators (and goodness knows what else) and that ability has no relevance to my lack of understanding of a defunct protective device. Go troll somewhere else, sweetheart.

I was round someone's house yesterday and had a look at their installation, as you do. The house was built @1980, original electrics still & they've got an ELCB (which the owner calls the 'lifesaver') between the meter & CU, 'protecting' the whole TNC-S system, there's no earthing to it, just...

That's true, I might isolate it & do it just before they switch it on again and pop back the day after it's live to refill & check it :)

I've fitted TRV's before and someone wants me to fit some on their radiators when the communal heating is turned off & drained down in the next few weeks. I imagine it'll be easy enough but am I right in thinking that I won't be able to test the valves & system until they switch it back on...

Which tail should it be fitted to though and what size tails are acceptable? :?

I've heard from a mate that as dogs are Class II equipment (due to their fur?) then there's no requirement for any special consideration & standard protection will suffice. Unless you have a Xoloitzcuintli or similar as these are Class I I believe, in which case you should consult your vet.

At a guess it means you must hold the current version of those qualifications, not that you have to renew it at an arbitrary interval :)

He should have test equipment & books, chances are he hasn't though. My local college (Uxbridge) charge £650 for 2392, £395 for 2382 (full course) or £213 for the update course & £745 for the EAL. In comparison, a reputable commercial training centre charge £525 - 2392, £495 & £175 for the 2...

Cool, that makes at least 2 of us who don't believe you are in the slightest. There's no danger of you becoming so either so don't worry, I won't persist.

Hey PrinceofDarkness, are you like, really important when it comes to forums? It seems that you think you are :)

Ok, I'll hold my hands up :oops: I play this great fun game, I enter a thread and hit F5 as many times as I can to see how many 'views' I can get it to before the next reply. Try it, it's brill 8)

I'll try and give you ball park figure of what'll cost you in your situation to join a scheme, using Elecsa as that's the route I know: Elecsa fees - £440 Insurance - £120 (first year assumed) DI qualification - £700 17th Edition wiring regs - £400 2392 Inpsection & testing - £500 (if you...